Debbie Higgins’ farm may be small, but it is definitely unique.

And that’s only because Debbie herself refused to take “no” for an answer.

Feeling strongly about the value of raw milk, her desire was to have a commercial goat dairy that specialized in selling the raw product. But when she applied for her license a little over a year ago, the state Department of Agriculture wasn’t interested in inspecting her farm or even looking at the application.

Within a couple of months though, she said, the state seemed to change its attitude, apparently from pressure by herself and others, and also perhaps in reaction to a national movement called “sustainability” which promotes raw, organic food.

So in August, her farm, Rainhaven Goat Dairy, became the second in the state to be licensed as a grade A raw milk goat dairy. The first was Grace Harbor Farms near Lynden which got its license in July.

Both Debbie and the owners of Grace Harbor Farms broke new ground when they applied for and finally were granted the new permits. Two other goat dairies in the state have since followed suit.

Debbie says the growing interest in raw milk and organic food products means legislation has had to change, too.

“Our state is in the limelight,” Debbie said. “What we do here will be setting the standards for raw milk production for the rest of the country.”

Debbie’s interest in goats began nine years ago when she thought her horse would like a companion. So she bought a doe that came with twin daughters.

She now has 21 Swiss Toggenburgs of all ages. She breeds the does by artificial insemination using semen from around the world. Currently, she has six does in milk, each giving 3/4 to two gallons per day.

Debbie, 52, made a living in graphic design and as a secretary before deciding she needed a change. She says the goat herd grew because she had an interest in making cheese but the cheese-making plan didn’t work out. It was then Debbie thought she would change her focus to raw milk production, keeping to her farming philosophy of “pure and simple.”

That is, if the operation is simple the product should be pure. By “simple,” she means avoiding the use of modern milking machines. And with just a handful of docile does to be milked, she has done just fine milking by hand. Monthly tests have shown excellent results.

Her small “cottage-style” dairy, surrounded by upscale horse farms, is located off Big Rock Road near the Stillwater Church.

Her days begin at 6 a.m., when, fortified with “lots of coffee,” she heads out to the small barn near the house. She begins by replenishing the hay for the goats, then sanitizes the equipment and brings in the goats, two at a time.

Hand-milking, she believes, keeps problems at bay that could be caused by the complexity of modern milking equipment.

The milk is strained and poured into sanitized glass jars or one-time use bottles for sale. Then it goes into an ice-water bath for quick cooling. It is kept refrigerated at or below 40 degrees until it is sold. It is available in quart, 1/2 gallon and gallon sizes. The milk averages 3.5 percent fat and 3 percent protein.

“The gallons are sold to people who make cheese,” she said.

She does some deliveries and has customers who pick up milk at the farm. Milk is also sold at the Pike Place Market Creamery and Theno’s Dairy on the Redmond-Woodinville Road. Although the milk keeps for two weeks, it is best in the first four days, she says.

Educating the public is also an integral part of Debbie’s business. She offers tours of the farm and gives talks to groups on the value of raw milk.

“Goat milk is naturally homogenized and it is more digestible than cows’ milk because of the molecular structure,” she says. “The fat globules stay suspended in the milk.”

She is in awe of what has already happened and is studying the legislative system further to learn how to continue to make changes.

“If you don’t try, nothing happens,” she said. “I never realized the politics of people wanting something could make so much of a difference.”

Debbie can be reached at rainhavengoatdairy@hotmail.com.