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Before
it became Russell’s Restaurant, the elegant
white barn stored bales of hay as part of a
150-acre dairy operation.
Something caught Russell
Lowell’s
attention as he drove past the North Creek
Valley, now known as the Technology Corridor
in Bothell.
Lowell, of Lowell-Hunt catering fame, explains, “It
was sometime in September several years ago.
I was out on the road and looking across
the valley. I thought how extraordinary the
fall colors were. And it was mystical with
the fog drifting among the colors in the
crisp autumn air. There was a magic to the
valley. Then I saw the barn. It was like
seeing through a window to history. It took
me back to my youth. It took me back to the
Tom Sawyer lifestyle. It was so cool and
I said to myself ‘Oh my! I’ve
got to have that.’”
The barn that captivated Lowell’s
attention once served as a hay barn. Built
in 1927, it rested on a 150-acre spread as
part of a dairy farm operation. Giant poplars,
a farmhouse and other dairy barns also occupied
the property.
In the 1930’s, Lloyd Mitchell bought
the farm from the original owners—the
McWhirter family. As part owner and manager
of Van De Kamp’s, Mitchell supplied
the company with dairy products. Van De Kamp’s
used photographs of Mitchell’s picture-perfect
cows and lush valley for advertisements.
Eventually Mitchell turned the business
over to his daughter and son-in-law, Eleanor
and Vern Fortin. The Fortins are best known
today as the founders of QFC and Vernell’s
Candies (for Vern & Eleanor).
Russell Lowell, owner
of Russell’s
Restaurant, also owns and runs the Garden
Café at Molbak’s and Russell’s
on Wall Street in Seattle.
The barn no longer
stores hay. Now refurbished and boasting
white paint, the barn houses “Russell’s”—a
restaurant Lowell describes as “casual
elegance.”
“I saw a need,” Lowell replies
when asked what inspired him to start the
restaurant. “There just isn’t
a place in the Woodinville-Bothell area that
serves day-to-day wine and food at reasonable
prices.”
Russell’s opened in April, 2005.
The interior displays a bucolic charm of
sophistication with wooden tables adorned
in white linen table cloths and fine glassware
and walls displaying artwork. “I love
art and I’m always changing it in the
restaurant,” Lowell says. “In
addition to paintings, I have bronzes and
blown glass.”
Food is the main focus, though. “More
and more people want an organic product and
I use locally grown produce and meat. And
as we approach fall, we’ll have wild
game on the menu. Right now, halibut’s
in season. Our sea scallops are incredible.” What
doesn’t he have? “I don’t
own a deep fryer. I can’t stand the
smell of grease.”
Lowell got his start as a chef at 15-years-old. “I
needed a job and so I applied at the 94th
Aero Squadron Restaurant in San Diego and
was hired on as a prep cook. I was thrown
right in with a French chef. It was hard
core.”
He
continued to hone his culinary skills at
upscale restaurants, working from prep
cook to chef. “About 16 years ago I
was at a restaurant in Hawaii and I decided
to start my own catering business.”
Before
business parks sprang up in the North Creek
Valley in Bothell, a picturesque dairy
farm claimed the area as its own.
The business, Lowell & Hunt, thrived
for 14 years. When business partner Jonathan
Hunt moved on to other food opportunities,
Lowell opened Russell’s in Bothell.
Lowell also owns and runs the Garden Café at
Molbak’s and Russell’s on Wall
Street in Seattle. His businesses allow him
to give back to the community. He hosts 20
charitable events per year throughout the
Pacific Northwest, raising money for Fred
Hutchison Cancer Research and Children’s
Hospital.
As a volunteer, he teaches in the culinary
arts program at Shoreline High School. In
winter he hosts his annual “Elk Camp
in the Woods” —exquisite cuisine
hosted inside tents out in the woods. Waiters
in white shirts and black ties complete the
charitable affair.
In September, Lowell will lend his culinary
skills as well as hay loft to the James Beard
Foundation’s Taste America event. Scheduled
for Friday evening, September 28, Taste America
will celebrate the James Beard Foundation’s
20th anniversary in Russell’s hay loft.
The $150 per person dinner/auction benefits
the Foundations of James Beard as well as
the Pike Place Market.
Upon mention of the hay loft, Lowell offers
a tour. Stairs or elevator transports visitors
to the second floor. The loft is not open
to the general public but available for business
and social occasions. The gleaming hardwood
floors, arched roof, towering glass windows,
and finely fitted wood and trusses give it
a reverential feeling of grandeur. The track
and carriage, still in place as if ready
to unload a bale of hay, evokes a link with
the past. “Can you imagine this place
full of hay?” Lowell asks his visitors
who stand silently in awe.
Gleaming hardwood floors, arched roof,
towering glass windows and finely fitted
wood and trusses give Russell’s barn
loft a reverential feel
Even if hay were still stored in the loft,
it wouldn’t take away from the barn’s
eminent distinction of making the past present.
But that’s not the only distinction
at Russell’s. “We have free parking
here,” Lowell says and then adds with
a smile, “Now that’s something
that’s rare in Seattle.”
Russell’s is located at 3305 Monte
Villa Parkway in Bothell. For information,
call (425) 486-4072.
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