Photo by Barry Wong
Executive Chef Brian Scheehser of Trellis in his garden at South 47 Farm

For Brian Scheehser, good food can always be traced back to the freshness and quality of the ingredients. “It all starts in the garden and on the farm,” says Scheehser. “That’s where you can plant what you want and nurture its growth until it’s ready to pick. It’s really what the concept of farm to table is about.”

As Executive Chef at Trellis Restaurant in Kirkland, Scheehser is in a position to know these things. But, he doesn’t simply give lip service to the facts. He lives and breathes them on a daily basis.

During the planting and harvesting seasons, you can find Scheehser actively farming his three acres at the South 47 Farm in Redmond. He’s been doing it for the past seven years, staging the land for restaurant use.

“I got into sustainable farming because I wanted better control over the ingredients I use in cooking,” explains Scheehser. “I wanted to be able to hand pick my produce to assure I was getting the best vegetables and fruits for my dishes. It also works out better in the cost department, too.”

Each year, the self-taught farmer’s knowledge of the land has grown and with it so has the success of his garden. He says, “I’ve gotten very comfortable out there and I love getting my hands into the soil. It’s exciting to try new techniques and plant different types of seeds and then see them grow. It’s a very satisfying and rewarding experience. But, I admit that it’s spoiled me, as now I have come to expect a very high level of quality in my ingredients and I won’t settle for anything less than the best.”

After serving as Executive Chef at the Hunt Club in the Sorrento Hotel for the past 10 years, Scheehser was tapped to design and run Trellis for the Heathman Hotel. It was an opportunity for him to extend his talents and creativity to a new venture, as well as a chance to be closer to his garden.

The hotel and restaurant opened just a few months ago and thus far both are receiving positive reviews.

“We designed Trellis to be a Napa Valley style restaurant, specializing in artisan foods,” comments Scheehser. “We call it the ‘art of the vine.’ The concept came about after some surveys which were done in the Kirkland and Redmond areas. People told us they wanted a casual, non pretentious neighborhood place that had an upscale environment and great food. They requested more of an intimate place, but one that you could still wear jeans at and not feel intimidated or out of place.”

The result is a cozy, 68-seat dining space done in a décor of natural, warm woods, stones and metal, with a roomy bar and spacious deck. According to Scheehser, it’s the largest “front porch” in Kirkland, with capacity for 40 people. He adds, “I really think the deck will be where people want to be, particularly in the warmer months. It’s going to provide a great al fresco dining experience.”

The menu at Trellis changes with the seasons and reflects Scheehser’s bounty from his own garden, as well as that from other artisan farmers, foragers and ranchers who share the vision of offering a true “farm to table” dining experience.

In winter, you’ll find plenty of heirloom tomatoes (Scheehser grows 19 varieties) used in pomodoro sauces, soups, flatbreads and salads.

Beets make their appearance in a Baby Beet Salad, a colorful painter’s palette of baby beets, frisee and a sprinkling of fried leeks, in a light, refreshing orange-citrus vinaigrette.

Winter squash makes its way into Winter Squash Ravioli and various types of potatoes are prominently used as sides to accompany such specialties as Pan Seared Chicken, a moist succulent Petaluma Free Range chicken with fresh rosemary and garlic.

Scheehser liberally uses herbs in his cooking and he has an entire section of his garden devoted to such flavor enhancers.

At lunch, you can expect to find an array of appetizers, salads and soups that include such specialties as Young Manila Clams, Grilled Broccolini and Salmon Bruschetta.

A Wine Country Platter (Fra’mani salumi, farmstead cheese, grapes, rosemary crisps and red onion & thyme marmalade) has become so popular, it’s served all day long and is considered a signature item.

Entrees range from hearty sandwiches (Salmon BLT, Smoked Turkey) and sumptuous salads (Wild Salmon Nicoise, Dungeness Crab) to flavorful, crisp Caprese flat bread made in the oven on fire bricks.

For pasta lovers, there’s Capellini Pomodoro, satisfying by itself or dotted with tender shrimp.

And if you’re a fan of eating breakfast foods at lunch, there’s a Summer Squash Omelette made with organic eggs and served with a toasted baguette, accompanied by a luscious tomato-orange marmalade.

At dinner, you’ll find the chef’s already famous Pacific Seafood Soup, chockfull of salmon, mussels, clams and prawns, and steamed with saffron and tomatoes.

The Pan Seared Salmon in an apple cider reduction also gets rave reviews as does the crisp Sonoma Duck.

And for meat lovers, there’s a Grilled Flat Iron Steak rubbed with peppercorns and served with a grapefruit and persimmon salad or a juicy 10 oz. New Yorker in herbed butter.

A selection of over 200 wines, with an emphasis on Northwest and California labels, complements the seasonal bounty.

The food at Trellis screams fresh, with its eye popping colors and combination of flavors that bring pleasurable surprises to the palette.

“Our customers seem to really enjoy the food,” comments Scheehser. “They’re intrigued by the flavor and they appreciate the earthiness of the ingredients, as well as the creativity of their use.”

Most diners at lunch and dinner are locals, who live or work in the surrounding area, but at breakfast, the clientele is mostly made up of hotel guests.

“It’s a nice combination of people who come in,” adds Scheehser, “and now we’re seeing lots of repeat customers, which is a good sign. Plus, the bar is quickly becoming the place to be for happy hour.”

Things are humming along, which suits Scheehser just fine.

And his plans to make Trellis the hot neighborhood restaurant are definitely on track.

He says, “The goal is for Trellis to stand out for its excellence in quality and comfortability. That’s really what we want people to come to expect when they eat here.”