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Poets Cove: gem of the Gulf Islands

  • Written by Deborah Stone

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Kenmore Air seaplane arriving at Bedwell Harbor. Photo by Deborah Stone.
In my opinion, riding in a seaplane is perhaps the ultimate flying experience, providing the weather cooperates and you have a good pair of earplugs.

There are no long waits to taxi down endless runways; instead, you simply glide along the water and then smoothly rise up in the air in seemingly effortless fashion.

On a recent trip to the Canadian Gulf Islands, I decided to opt for a Kenmore Air seaplane as my transport, instead of the usual car/ferry combo that most folks commonly use to reach this special getaway.

One minute I was looking out at the Lake Union dock and the Seattle skyline, and the next, I was above it all, but not so far up that I wasn’t able to distinguish buildings, boats and rock formations from my magnificent bird’s eye perch.

In just a little over an hour, including a brief stop for customs at Sydney (where a group of sea otters lounging on the pier along with a pair of Canadian Mounties greeted the plane), I reached my destination for the weekend, Poets Cove on Pender Island.

The plane landed right in front of the resort, touching gently down on the water in a welcoming kiss. In minutes, I was on land, refreshed and exhilarated from my scenic flight and ready to explore my new surroundings.

Pender Island is one of about 225 Gulf Islands, most of which are small, uninhabited and accessible only by private boat. Pender and five others, including Salt Spring, Mayne, Galiano, Saturna and Gabriola, comprise a group of the largest and most accessible of the islands, with year round populations that inhabit them. Known for their heavenly beaches, lush forests, rolling countryside, abundant flora and fauna and balmy climate, these islands offer visitors peace and tranquility amidst a spectacular natural setting.

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View of waterfall at resort and harbor below. Photo by Deborah Stone.
Pender Island is actually comprised of two islands, North and South Pender, which are joined by a picturesque, one-lane wooden bridge.

Together, the islands measure 14-square miles in size and are home to a population of 2,200, a figure that almost doubles during the summer months. As far back as 6,000 years ago, the Coast Salish aboriginal people hunted and fished around these islands. They were permanently settled in the 1800s and named after Daniel Pender, master of the ship “Plumper.”

Over the years, steamships began to arrive, dropping off mail, freight and passengers to the small harbor on South Pender Island. In May of 1959, the Bedwell Resort and Marina was built on the banks and hillside of this bay and in time, the place became a favorite refuge with boaters.

But in 2002, the modest resort, showing signs of age, was torn down and construction began on a new luxury property in order to make way for a new era of tourism on Pender. A little over a year ago, Poets Cove Resort & Spa officially opened and began welcoming visitors to its docks with warm island hospitality.

Seemingly remote, in the heart of Canada’s newest Marine National Park, the resort is actually geographically central to the urban areas of Seattle, Victoria and Vancouver, making it an accessible getaway for those in the Pacific Northwest. It has fast become a year-round destination that appeals to couples and families, as well as to corporate types seeking a retreat. Designed in classic West Coast style, with breathtaking water views, Poets Cove is a jewel amid the rugged beauty of its landscape.

The resort consists of a 110-slip marina, a 22-room lodge, nine luxury villas and 15 deluxe cottages, a fine dining room and lounge, spacious meeting/conference rooms, two heated outdoor swimming pools, a fitness center, tennis court and a world class spa. All of the rooms have spectacular ocean views and feature large outdoor patios and stone fireplaces.

Thoughtful touches abound from local seashells filled with bath salts infused with aromatic lavender to handsome writing desks, complete with elegant coil bound notebooks for guests to record their musings or reflections. The notebook nicely ties in with the resort’s moniker. Island lore has it that this idyllic spot and romantic setting by the bay was a favorite for local couples to become engaged.

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Poets Cove Resort & Spa. Photo by Deborah Stone.
The owners of the new resort chose to name their creation, “Poets Cove,” as they felt it captured the intimate feeling and lyrical spirit of this special place. Although the resort and Pender Island itself offer many experiences for quiet contemplation and plenty of opportunities for well-deserved R&R, there are a number of other activities visitors can engage in, from athletic pursuits to sight-seeing and cultural events.

Poets Cove offers kayaking adventures, sailing courses, deep sea fishing, scuba diving instruction (the region has been rated as one of the world’s best for diving), educational eco excursions, guided hikes and bicycle tours of the island. Pender is well-known for its artisans, but there are only a few galleries and shops open to the public.

One of my favorites is Renaissance Gallery, an eclectic world bazaar specializing in glass jewelry creations and antiques. The island also has a reputation for having one of the best disc golf courses in North America.

To the uninitiated, disc golf is an international sport played with a Frisbee instead of clubs and balls. Pender’s 27-hole course is set in the middle of the woods and folks from all over come here to challenge their skills in this unique sport.

Guests can also rent a wide variety of boats from the resort and explore the beaches and secluded coves tucked along the coastline. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot seal otters, harbor seals and porpoises frolicking in the water and spy eagles soaring high above the Arbutus trees.

Many guests at the lodge opt to do the Mt. Norman by the Sea excursion, which involves taking a boat shuttle into Beaumont Marine Park and then going on a guided hike to the summit of Mt. Norman. At 244 meters, this peak is the highest point on the island and on a clear day, you can have breathtaking views of the surrounding Gulf Islands and even a San Juan Island or two.

I was fortunate to have the weather gods with me when I made the two kilometer trek up the mountain. Colorful foxglove were in bloom along the path and when I reached the top, I was rewarded with one of Mother Nature’s dazzling displays. The sea sparkled below and Saltspring, Morsby, Sydney, North Pender and Stuart Islands were in full view.

After taking in this dramatic show, I headed back down the mountain and made a beeline for the spa for some indulgent pampering.

The spa at Poets Cove is aptly named “Susurrus,” a word meaning a whispering or murmuring sound, like that made by the waves or the wind. It’s also the sound of contentment that escapes your lips after experiencing one of the spa’s therapeutic treatments.

In this oasis of well-being, I sipped herbal tea and relaxed with a hot scented lavender neck pack, before heading outside to sit in the eucalyptus steam cave. Set in a rock grotto, underneath the veil of a 10-meter waterfall, this sandstone cave was built to harness an ancient healing practice. Inside, the temperatures range from 110 to 130 degrees Fahrenheit and as you sit on one of the benches built into the rock, steam envelops you, causing you to sweat and release toxins.

If you get too hot, you can splash cool water from a nearby fountain on your face or there’s also a cold plunge shower outside the cave for a full body refresher. Being in the steam cave can best be described as participating in a primordial ritual to revitalize and restore the body. As the steam misted and enclosed me in a warm cocoon, I was aware only of the sounds of the cascading waterfall overhead and my own breathing. I remained in this almost trancelike state until I heard another person enter the cave, at which point I left, feeling cleansed and calm. It only seemed natural to walk across the rocks and take a soak in the nearby Ocean Falls Jacuzzi for the complete Calgon experience.

As I sank into the bubbling cauldron, I gazed out at the sea, taking note of all the different water craft making their way in and out of the bay. Bedwell Harbor is an active marina where boats of all sizes and shapes are moored. Large, luxury yachts come in alongside small pleasure craft, while float planes land and take off on a regular basis. Despite this flow of traffic, it is a peaceful spot, loaded with quaint island charm.

All too soon, I was called into the spa for my treatment. Susurrus offers a wide range of relaxation and esthetic services, from hot stone massages and seaweed wraps to salt glows and organic facials.

The 3,500 foot facility has six treatment rooms, some with ocean views and many with fireplaces, and prides itself on incorporating Mother Earth fundamentals to create its signature treatments.

During my Poets Cove Signature Massage, my therapist’s hands were gifted instruments that worked wonders on my knots of stress. But it was the Raindrop Therapy that was the true magic. Oils of basil, thyme, peppermint, wintergreen, marjoram, Cyprus and frankincense were dropped in a sequence along various points on my spine and then spread in feather fashion outward on the rest of my back. The oils each had special properties. Some helped to promote relaxation and stabilize circulation, whereas others induced deeper breathing and soothed aches and pains. As the drops lightly fell on me, I embarked on an amazing sensory, wellness voyage that resulted in a sensation of complete balance and harmony. This feeling of well-being continued throughout the duration of my stay at Poets Cove.

I left the resort, rejuvenated in body, mind and spirit, but as soon as my plane took off from the dock, I was already greedily planning a return visit to this Gulf Island gem.

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