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Memorable ‘pinch me’ moments abound in Southeast Asia

  • Written by Deborah Stone

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Sunrise at Cambodia’s famed Temple of Angkor Wat is a surreal “pinch me” moment.
As the stars fade and the colors of the sky begin to slowly change, the dark shadows of Angkor Wat’s temple walls gradually emerge. The anticipation builds among the hushed crowd as the towers and their reflection in the moat surrounding the vast complex become clearer. And then, this visually, architecturally and artistically breathtaking scene reveals itself in full glory, rendering viewers speechless. It’s a “pinch me” moment and I revel in the experience, trying to savor each special element.

 

Seeing Cambodia’s famed Angkor Wat was just one of the many “pinch me” moments I encountered during my trip to Vietnam and Cambodia with Journeys Within, an award-winning boutique Southeast Asia tour company. I confess I stopped counting these memorable occurrences after just a few days into this fascinating cultural odyssey. The moments came fast and furious, one after another, and all I could do was continue to pinch myself to ensure I wasn’t dreaming.

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The Old Quarter of Hanoi is a narrow maze of crowded streets, with vendors selling everything from fresh veggies and noodles to fish, fine silk and lacquerware.
My adventure began in Hanoi, the bustling capital of Vietnam, where modern meets ancient in regards to architecture, traditions and culture. This charming, yet chaotic city overwhelms the senses. The Old Quarter is a congested maze of narrow streets offering a wealth of cheap shopping and delicious, exotic eats from street stalls and sidewalk cafes. Persistent vendors implore you to check out their goods, from Chinese knockoffs to lacquerware and fine silk shirts, in what is akin to one giant open air marketplace. The area is jammed pack with pedestrians, bicycles, motorbikes, cars and tuk tuks, the proverbial motorized rickshaw or pedicab that is a popular form of transportation in many Southeast Asian countries. The pace of traffic is frenetic and vehicles come from all directions with total disregard for civilized rules, making the act of crossing the streets an extreme adventure sport. The stakes are high, the risks are great and he who hesitates (or veers suddenly) is toast!

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Water puppetry is a Vietnamese tradition dating back to the 11th century.
There are numerous sights to explore in this lively city, from Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and the famed One Pillar Pagoda (a Hanoi landmark) to the Hoa Lo Prison Museum, the penitentiary built by the French in the 1880s and later used to house American POWs, who sarcastically named it the “Hanoi Hilton.” One of the “must see” attractions is a water-puppet show at the acclaimed Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. The art form of water puppetry is a Vietnamese tradition dating back to the 11th century. Wooden puppets are mounted on long bamboo poles, which remain totally hidden under a shallow pool of water. Experienced puppeteers manipulate the puppets, making them appear to be dancing over the water. They perform numerous vignettes of everyday village life, as well as act out age-old legends and myths. Shows are accompanied by singers and a live orchestra, which sits to the left of the stage and plays a variety of traditional instruments. It’s a highly entertaining experience and definitely one for the memory books.

From Hanoi, I headed to Halong Bay for a three-day trip on a classic junk boat. A visit to this UNESCO World Heritage site is an incredible treat. The bay features nearly 2,000 limestone islands of various sizes and shapes that rise up from the crystalline emerald water, creating one of Vietnam’s most spectacular natural wonders. The isles appear as monoliths or pillars and together with a variety of coastal erosional features such as arches, caves and grottos, combine to create a haunting seascape. Kayaking in and around these formations, especially on a misty late afternoon, is deliciously eerie, qualifying for yet another one of those “pinch me” moments. The follow-up, a spectacular cave dinner, provided the icing on the cake. Surrounded by candles and tea lights, my fellow passengers and I ate at a long table within a massive cavern that we reached after trekking up steps carved into the side of a large rock formation. We were all bewitched by this enchanting setting, not to mention fully sated by the grand feast of beautifully presented fresh seafood.

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The lake villages of Tonle Sap in Cambodia are built on sticks in order to rise above the water level during the rainy season when it floods.
In addition to kayaking and lazing on the deck while watching the bay’s mystical scenery pass by, we also visited a local fishing village. The residents of the village, about 200 total, live in houses that float on the water with the help of plastic barrels. There’s even a floating school for the children. It’s a way of life for nearly 3,000 people who call Halong Bay their home.

Vietnam is full of World Heritage Sites from north to south and all places in between. In the central zone of the country lies the old capital city of Hue, which contains a number of historic treasures. Located on the banks of the picturesque Perfume River, the city is notable for its temples, royal tombs, palaces and pagodas. One of the prime attractions is the Imperial Citadel, an extensive complex that once contained a forbidden city where only the emperors, concubines and those close enough to them were granted access. South of the city are the Tombs of the Emperors, each with a different style, providing excellent examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture. Khai Dinh, the best preserved of the lot, is completely over the top with opulent, detailed mosaics.

Dinner at Tha Om Ancient House provided another “pinch me” opportunity. Located in a small village near Hue, the 100-year-old home is owned by an architect who is a descendent of a mandarin royal family. At night, the compound’s stone lanterns are lit up, displaying its numerous ponds and gardens, which exemplify the use of Feng Shui in ancient architecture. The menu for the evening’s meal was cleverly written on a fan and included such sumptuous delights as spring rolls, pumpkin soup, green papaya salad, fish, grilled beef on tiles and a host of tropical fruits, among other delectable dishes. The experience included a tour of the property, provided by the owner who enjoys regaling guests with intriguing historical information and details about the house, as well as its original occupant, the owner’s eccentric grandfather.

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Colorful lanterns hang from the trees in the Ancient Town of Hoi An.
Getting off the beaten path occasionally is important to me when I travel, as I feel that some of the best sights and experiences can be found in out-of-the-way locales, far from the madding crowds. Journeys Within has a reputation for crafting itineraries that build in such unique opportunities. Take Truoi Lake and Truc Lam Bach Ma Zen Monastery for example. The monastery, with its traditional pagoda gates, bell towers and halls for Buddhist practice, is reached via a short boat ride across lovely Truoi Lake. Surrounded by the Bach Ma (White Horse) Mountain Range, with its amazing white clouds that look like horses on the mountain peaks, the lake is a well-kept secret. Those who know of it, often use it as a tool for Buddhist practice, as the water is regarded as a place to wash the guilt from one’s body before seeing Buddha. Once on the other side of the lake, the climb uphill to the monastery begins. In Buddhist theory, one of the ways to see Buddha or to achieve Zen is to clear the mind. It is said that keeping count of the number of steps and breaths as you mount the 173 stairs allows you to completely “blank” your mind. At the top, you’ll be rewarded with an unparalleled scenic view and an impressive pagoda complete with a kindly old Buddhist monk who warmly greets visitors.

The south of Vietnam, which is considered the tail of the country’s dragon shape, holds its own when it comes to memorable sights and experiences. Ho Chi Minh City, formerly named Saigon, is the largest and most populated metropolitan and economic center in the country. Located near the Mekong River Delta, this city, like Hanoi, is a melding of Old World charm and modern influences and bustles with life rhythm 24-7. Examples of colonial French architecture, such as the stately Opera House and the grand Central Post Office, remind visitors of the French Indochina period in the country’s history.

For Vietnam War buffs, the Reunification Palace and War Remnants Museum provide insight into the conflict primarily from the perspective of the Vietnamese. The Palace, formerly the presidential quarters for South Vietnam’s president, has been left largely untouched from the day before Saigon fell to the North. A replica of the tank that crashed through the gate, officially ending the war on April 30, 1975, is parked on the lawn outside the building. Inside, there’s a kitschy rec room and an eerie basement full of vintage 1960s phones, radios and office equipment, supposedly left exactly as it was found when the North assumed power. A photo gallery and propaganda film recounting the domination of Ho Chi Minh’s revolutionary forces against the South and its American allies completes the picture. The War Remnants Museum is a much heavier and disturbing walk down memory lane, with halls of gruesome photographs and jars of deformed fetuses attributed to Agent Orange contamination.

Outside Ho Chi Minh in the Cu Chi district are the famed Cu Chi tunnels, which are worth a visit if only to get a full understanding of the ingenious underground network that aided guerilla fighters in their resistance to first the French and later, American forces. At its height, this intricate multi-layered system stretched from the South Vietnamese capital to the Cambodian border and consisted of innumerable trap doors, living areas, storage facilities, weapons factories, field hospitals, kitchens and command centers.

Via Journeys Within, I was able to meet and have dinner with a Vietnam War veteran. Mr. Binh Tron was only twenty years old when he joined the Viet Cong to fight against the South Vietnamese and eventually, the Americans, in an effort to help unify his country. He viewed Communism as a means to a better life and fully supported the views of his hero, Ho Chi Minh. Over the years, he rose within the ranks of the military to become a Colonel General. Today, at 83, Tron speaks of Vietnam’s future and hopes for his people. Through a translator, he explained that he encourages visitors to come to his country in friendship and in peace.

Though war sites, museums and memorials are in abundance in the south, there are other non-military-related points of interest, including the Cao Dai Great Temple. Definitely off the usual tourist route, this center of worship for the religion of Cao Daism is remarkable. The building closely resembles a Christian cathedral in its architecture, but is extravagantly decorated with a host of symbols, abstract designs and images of saints. Cao Daism is a unique religion that worships Jesus, Confucius and Buddha. Its most important symbol is the Divine Eye, which represents God. There are four ceremonies with chanting each day and an orchestra and choir leads the service in prayer and hymns. Timing your visit to the temple is essential in order to catch sight of the sea of faithful who dress in flowing white, yellow and blue robes and assemble in orderly rows during the ceremony with men on the right and women on the left.

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Deep in the heart of the Cambodian jungle lies the Temple of Ta Prohm, where a battle wages between nature and architecture.
Cambodia, like Vietnam, contains countless cultural jewels. In Siem Reap alone, there are scores of magnificent remains of the different capitals of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to 15th Centuries, including the aforementioned eminent Temple of Angkor Wat. Though Angkor Wat is a “must see,” make sure you venture further out to some of the other temple sites including Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm and the lesser-visited Preah Khan. The latter two were most fascinating to me, as they depict a battle between nature and architecture, where it’s obvious that nature is getting the upper hand. The jungle is basically devouring the remains of these ancient structures, as the trees have taken root in loosened stones and wound their way through the buildings. Determining which root belongs to which tree becomes a mesmeric puzzle for the viewer, as does the question of why an entire population abandoned these sites umpteen years ago. Preah Khan, which was built in 1191 A.D., originally served as a monastery and school, and at one time, 15,000 people lived there. Some archaeologists postulate that possibly severe climate conditions forced inhabitants to leave, but the actual reason for their departure will always be a mystery. As I walked among these masterpieces, I could almost hear the voices of the past within the crumbling walls of the ruins. It was truly a mystical, spiritual “pinch me” moment.

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Taking a cooking class is an opportunity to learn about the many exotic spices and ingredients used in Cambodian food.
In addition to its temples, Siem Reap has much to offer, with a myriad of cultural and culinary forays. Food plays a front and center role in Cambodia (as in all of Southeast Asia for that matter) and a cooking class is a wonderful way to learn about the different spices and ingredients that comprise the many flavorful dishes. Siem Reap is also a great place to get heavenly foot massages after a long day of temple trekking. You’ll see foreigners with ecstatic looks on their faces, splayed out on recliner chairs that line the streets, getting their tootsies worked on by an army of efficient and entrepreneurial Cambodian massage practitioners.

For an up-close and personal view of rural life, take a tour of a nearby village with a local guide, who will show you his community of houses built on sticks and explain how residents eke out a living with their small rice farms and various cottage industries (i.e. rice distilleries and bamboo basket making). There’s no electricity so people use car batteries, candles and lamp oil. An average family has six kids, who attend school until sixth grade at the small village school. If they want to continue their education, the children must go into Siem Reap.

The tour motivated my desire to further interact with the local people. Journeys Within gladly facilitated this opportunity via its nonprofit organization, Journeys Within Our Community (JWOC).  Founded by Brandon and Andrea Ross, owners of Journeys Within Tour Company, the organization works at the local level to be an active force for change. While living in Cambodia, the couple saw firsthand the needs of a population struggling with poverty and also saw the desire of their guests, friends and family to provide support. They realized they could work as intermediaries between those who needed help and those who wanted to give it, and thus, JWOC was born.

The organization invests in future generations by offering scholarships to students who have the ability to succeed, but are unable to afford the tuition fees and course materials. In return for their financial assistance, the students give back to their community by volunteering weekly in various activities under JWOC’s umbrella. The nonprofit also offers a micro-finance program aimed at addressing the major problem of credit and debt in Cambodia. By enabling people to begin or expand small businesses at fair and sustainable rates, they have the chance to break free from the cycle of poverty. Additional programs include the Clean Water Project and the Free Schools Program; the latter which offers a variety of English language classes, training opportunities and skills development for children and adults.

I chose to volunteer one afternoon in an English conversation class for adults. The group met at JWOC’s center in a building adjacent to the Journeys Within Boutique Hotel, where I was staying during my time in Siem Reap. Three other volunteers from the hotel joined me in assisting the teacher with different speaking activities. The students were delightful and equally as curious about us as we were about them, which spurred an enthusiastic and stimulating exchange. Their hearty appreciation for our time was genuine, but I know that I got much more in return than I gave. Yet another “pinch me” moment to treasure from this incredible trip.


Photos by Deborah Stone

If you go:

Journeys Within Tour Company is an award-winning boutique Southeast Asia tour company dedicated to delivering its guests unforgettable, customized trips through Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. The company’s team of experts craft personalized journeys that allow travelers to leave tourist hubs and get out into the countryside for an authentic cultural experience. It also provides clients the opportunity to be involved in active philanthropy through JWOC’s community support efforts.

For more information: 877-454-3672 or www.journeys-within.com

Vietnam tourism information: www.vietnamtourism.com

Cambodia tourism information: www.tourismcambodia.com

Toll Free (877) Toll Free (877) 454-3672 454-3672


It’s all about transformations at Mountain Trek

  • Written by Deborah Stone
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The majestic and rugged Purcell and Selkirk Mountains make awe-inspiring backdrops for hikers. Courtesy photo.
Those who participate in a Mountain Trek fitness and health retreat will tell you the experience is life-changing. Some will even go as far as saying it’s life-saving.

“We like to think we crack that door open for people and help them create the all-important mind-body relationship that is so crucial to optimal health,” says Kirkland Shave, Mountain Trek’s program director and life coach. “We want them to fall in love with their body because they paid attention to it and now they want to care for it.”

Though the program guarantees weight loss, Shave emphasizes that this is not the overriding goal at Mountain Trek. He explains that it’s really about changing perceptions, instilling empowerment and giving people the necessary tools to make the transformation they seek.

“It’s a jump start to improved vitality and fitness, but it can be much more than that if you apply what you learn and integrate it into your daily life,” adds Shave. The program encompasses four components: healthy nutrition (meal composition, meal timing, nutritional support and awareness), healthy lifestyle (fitness and physical activity – hiking and evening strength and cardio classes), detoxification (sweat, massage, water and breathing clean air) and healthy self-care (sleep, stress management and goal setting through journaling).

Participants, typically 75 percent women and 25% men with an average age range of 42-52, come from all over the world, though the majority hails from the U.S. and Canada. The catalyst for their participation varies from doctor’s advice to a recent life-altering experience such as divorce or illness that prompts them to make a change.

“People come here who have been under a lot of stress,” comments Shave. “They arrive with the knowledge that something’s wrong and they’re not happy with the direction they’re heading in. They view the program not as a vacation, but rather as an investment to balance their lives physically, spiritually, emotionally and mentally.”

During my weeklong stay at Mountain Trek this past summer, I was one of eight guests. We all had different motivations and objectives ranging from losing weight and body fat to improving fitness and detoxing. Although these aims were primarily physical, there was also an overriding intention to spend time communing with nature in order to reap its mental, emotional and spiritual benefits. Everyone was eager to learn and absorb what they could from the experts in residence, while challenging themselves in new and different ways. Though we came from varying backgrounds, we bonded quickly as a group. There’s something about putting people in a restricted situation that creates an almost instant camaraderie.

“People connect easily here because it’s a shared experience,” explains Shave. “It comes out of the sacrifice that participants are making – what they’re giving up and doing without – and the struggles that they go through in the process. The group becomes its own strong support system.”

A typical day at Mountain Trek in beautiful British Columbia begins with a knock on your door at 6 a.m. After downing a small protein smoothie and making the necessary written notes about one’s physical and mental state, it’s time to head to an hour-long gentle yoga class.

Held in a lovely studio with panoramic views of Canada’s famed glacier-fed Kootenay Lake and Purcell Mountain Range, these sessions are welcomed by all, as they provide an opportunity to stretch and work out the kinks in your body, as well as do some guided meditation. Breakfast follows in the cozy dining room with equally impressive vistas.

Mealtime is very social and highly anticipated, as food is served only at specific times of day. There’s no raiding the pantry here! You eat what and when you’re told, which makes it easy because there are no choices to contemplate. Women get 1,200 calories a day and men receive 1,400.

The organic spa cuisine exceeds expectation. It’s delicious and surprisingly satisfying. Initially, I thought I would be hungry, especially since this is a physically intense program, however my stomach never really growled because it was being fed healthy, nutrient and protein-rich food every few hours. Breakfast might consist of lemon ricotta pancakes with blueberry sauce or a roasted red pepper frittata, for example. The morning snack could be fruit and a small piece of cheese or my favorite, a heavenly concoction called “Coconut Apricot Bliss Balls.”

Lunch is typically a thermos of hearty soup, such as mushroom barley lentil or Moroccan chicken stew, followed later by an afternoon snack of veggies with hummus or another tasty type of dip.

And dinner, always a big hit, features delectable delights like cedar planked salmon, crab cakes with curry sauce, lime coconut scallops, mushroom sherry stuffed chicken breasts and prawn vermicelli.

Following breakfast, the group readies itself for a day in the great outdoors. Mountain Trek’s fitness program is primarily focused on hiking and participants are placed in appropriate groups based on their level of fitness. There’s a guide for each group, no matter how small, and two, if necessary, for larger numbers.

The hikes are located within spectacularly scenic areas in and around the rugged Purcell and Selkirk Mountains, which are known for their picturesque lakes, rushing rivers, weathered canyons and verdant old growth forests.

The treks vary in distance and elevation, depending on group level, but everyone hikes for about five hours a day. You are equipped with a heavy-duty backpack and removable camel pouch for water, a heart rate monitor and pair of walking sticks.

Add lunch and two snacks, raingear, extra dry clothing and other miscellaneous items and you’re set to go. The poles will become your friends, as they are true aids in navigating the trails once you learn how to use them effectively.

I especially relied on them on the downhill, as they helped cushion the impact on my knees.

During the hikes, guides not only encourage participants to keep up their heart rates and persevere onward when the going gets tough, but they also provide interesting commentary about the environment.

Among hikers, the conversation topics were all over the place. It was interesting how willing most people were to share their deeply personal thoughts and experiences with each other after such a short amount of time.

I believe the setting and situation removes barriers, allowing individuals to open up more readily. The hikes, though sometimes arduous, were always rewarding because of the scenery, the companionship and the sense of accomplishment that participants felt upon completion.

As the days went by, fitness levels increased and some people were able to change group levels to challenge themselves further.

Each afternoon, after hiking, the group gathered for an informative session on a specific topic such as nutrition, stress, sleep or goal-setting. Mountain Trek’s staff is well-trained and educated in these areas and they have much knowledge and information to impart.

They are also highly motivational and compassionate individuals with a sincere desire to help others achieve their goals.

Though you might be familiar with some of the material dispensed at these lifestyle and wellness lectures, it never hurts to hear it again, especially from a new source and within an environment highly conducive to receptiveness.

The sessions are followed by dinner and then it’s time to hit the gym for more physical activity.

The evening program might be a strength and conditioning workout, circuit training, kickboxing or another type of activity.

It can be hard to summon the energy for these classes after hiking all day, but evening exercise is an integral component of the program and instructors are adept at knowing how to rally the troops.

Just know that you’ll soon be prone on a massage table getting your body kneaded by a skilled therapist who will work his/her magic on all your aches and pains. Or, you can look forward to time in the steam room, infrared sauna or hot tub. Those who want the natural healing hot springs experience are welcome to visit nearby Ainsworth Hot Springs. It’s no surprise to learn that sleep is not an issue for most folks at Mountain Trek. The amount of activity and time spent outdoors in the mountain air worked wonders on my typical erratic sleep habits and insomnia problems. I slept like a baby and woke up refreshed and clear-headed each morning. Mountain Trek has been offering its fitness and weigh loss program for ten years and it has a proven track record of success. Of those guests that keep in touch, Shave notes that about one-third make permanent changes to their lives. The other two-thirds eventually fall back to old habits after some time has passed. He adds, “We feel that our rate of success is very good. In comparison, the Mayo Clinic has only 2 percent of their clients that change permanently. That’s how difficult it is.” I left Mountain Trek with a renewed sense of vitality and commitment to maintaining my well-being, as well as an enhanced awareness of the power and impact that my choices have on my present and future health.

If you go:

Mountain Trek offers its hiking fitness retreat programs at its B.C. base lodge from May through October and its winter snowshoeing retreats from late December to early January.

The program is also offered at Rancho La Puerta Fitness Resort in Baja at various times during the year.

For more information: 800-661-5161 or www.mountaintrek.com

Vancouver satisfies appetites of all kinds

  • Written by Deborah Stone
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Staff Photo/Deborah Stone. On Sewell’s Marina’s high speed sea safari, you’ll explore picturesque Howe Sound, where wildlife abounds and scenic vistas are plentiful.
There’s a reason why Outside magazine awarded Vancouver, Canada, the world’s “Best Weekend Escape.”

It’s a destination with an incredible range of outdoor activities, cultural attractions, accommodations, restaurants and some of the most picturesque scenery imaginable.

Green spaces abound in the city, along with the natural beauty of mountain vistas and miles of coastal waterfront. As you stroll through the streets, you’ll feel a palpable sense of energy and buzz that lends an element of excitement to the town.

You’ll also note the cultural mosaic that comprises this diverse and exciting, cosmopolitan hub.

The varying ethnicities help to contribute to the city’s highly touted culinary scene, which teems with award-winning restaurants and chefs.

One of the best ways to explore this gastronomy landscape is via Edible Canada’s signature tour of colorful Granville Island Market.

It’s a two-hour sensory adventure, billed as “sightseeing for your taste buds,” with the best flavors of the region taking center stage.

As you walk through the bustling European style market, your guide will introduce you to a diverse array of vendors from green grocers and butchers to bakers, fishmongers, cheese specialists and chocolatiers.

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Staff Photo/Deborah Stone. Benton Brothers is a well-known cheese company specializing in small farm cheese.
There are more than 50 permanent vendors and a constantly rotating roster of farmers and culinary artisans, making Granville a true cook’s treasure and a foodie’s heaven.

 

First stop on our tour was the Granville Island Tea Company, boasting nearly 150 teas from all over the world.

Our guide, Jamie, explained about the differences between white, green and black tea, noting that it is the location of the leaves on the tea plant, as well as the harvesting time that is of prime importance.

We sampled a delightfully spiced Masala Chai that had me practically purring like a cat with a bowl of cream and then took turns smelling a variety of teas from a toasty rice flavored Genmaicha to a smoky Lapsang Souchong.

“This is a business based on love,” said Jamie, “and owners Mark and his wife Deborah are passionate about tea. They’ve created quite a tea culture here with a devoted following of regulars.”

She adds, “The hardest part of the experience is deciding which tea to taste!”

Next on our tour was The Stock Market, a company known for its hearty homemade soups, sauces, salad dressings and to my surprise, hot cereals.

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Staff Photo/Deborah Stone. The Granville Island Tea Company boasts nearly 150 teas from all over the world.
We tried their signature seven grain with apple rhubarb compote on top – definitely a winner in my book.

 

At the next vendor, La Baguette & L’Echalote, the aroma made me swoon, as did the array of pastries and artisan breads.

We were given a dark chocolate pain au chocolat croissant to sample, which was light, flaky and melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

At Benton Brothers, a well-known cheese company specializing in small farm cheeses, owner Andrew Benton gave us a cube of Alpindon to try. I claimed this Alpine style summer cheese with its earthy tones and creamy texture my new favorite.

A stop at Zara’s Italian Deli provided a lesson in olives with samples of Barese Nero (black) and Barese Verde (green).

Their meaty texture belies their mild and buttery taste with just a subtle hint of sweetness.

“Zara’s olives are famous,” noted Jamie, “as are their pastas, especially the handmade tortellini, which always sells out so quickly.”

I was particularly enamored with the striped Raviolani, which looks exactly like ribbon candy.

One of my favorite stops was at Chocolatas, a chocolatier specializing in Belgian-style confections, where we nibbled at squares of dark pink grapefruit ganache and dark ganache flavored with wasabi, of all things!

On the savory side, there was Oyama Sausage, with its famed sausage cured with Granville Island sake and Okanagan red wine, and Seafood City, a thriving fish market featuring smoked salmon maple nuggets that were so sweet they could easily be mistaken for dessert.

Our last stop was at Lee’s Donuts, a longtime vendor that consistently attracts crowds clamoring for its famed glazed donuts, especially when they’re fresh out of the oven.

Head baker Alvin, who’s been there forever, will tell you he loves his job.

“Every morning I wake up and go to work where I make people happy,” he says with a big smile.

The tour ended at Edible Canada’s bistro and retail store, where a few more samples awaited us, including birch syrup from the Cariboo and chocolate balsamic vinegar, made by Vancouver’s own Dundarave Olive Company.

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Staff Photo/Deborah Stone. Vancouver’s colorful Granville Island Market as seen on an Edible Canada Market Tour, which is billed as “sightseeing for your tastebuds.”
The market tour gave us a great introduction to Vancouver’s food scene and helped set us up for forays to three unique restaurants: The Oakwood Canadian Bistro, Sanafir and Campagnolo, all recommendations from locals in the know.

 

The Oakwood is a casually hip little gem in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood, where talented Executive Chef Mike Robbins crafts tasty, seasonally driven dishes inspired by locally sourced organic ingredients.

Opt to start with the fried octopus with bacon aioli and Japanese mustard spinach, followed by the albacore tuna and fennel salad or beets with smoked vanilla goat cheese.

For a bit of French Canadian fare, there’s poutine (French fries with curds, gravy and smoked brisket) and in typical Canadian East Coast fashion, you’ll find a fried egg adorning such entrees as branzino or sea bass.

Desserts of various combinations like milk chocolate ganache, rum infused bananas and walnut brittle are served up in cute little Mason jars.

Sanafir offers an entirely different experience with its flickering candles and Moroccan-inspired, sensual surroundings.

There are even dining “beds” on the upper level where couples can have a truly romantic meal.

The cuisine is based on the Silk Road with infusions of exotic flavors from North Africa, China, India and the Mediterranean.

Mezze plates, tapas, tagines and curries explode with spice and color under the deft hands of Executive Chef Ray Bear. Seafood takes center billing with offerings that range from Moroccan Mussel & Clams to Wild Salmon in coconut yellow curry.

Meat lovers, take heart, as there are plenty of options including the Egyptian Spiced Striploin, Lamb Tagine and Balgarbi Ribs.

Use the grilled Naan bread to sop up the juices.

Travel to the Eastside of town to find Campagnolo, a casual Italian restaurant that consistently earns rave reviews.

It’s an unassuming place and not easy to find if you’ve never been in the area, especially if you’re looking for prominent signage.

Inside, the décor is simple — wood and brick with exposed beams.

Start with the Crispy Ceci, a unique salad of chick peas that have been fried with chilies, mint and citrus, or opt for the Salumi platter made of the restaurant’s own cured meat.

If it’s pasta you want, you’ll be more than satisfied with offerings such as potato gnocchi with spot prawns and Rigatoni Puttanesca with Humboldt squid.

But, if you’re a pizza connoisseur, you’re in excellent hands, as Campagnolo is known for its buttery, thin-crusted, simply adorned pies that will make you groan with pleasure, bite after heavenly bite.

Though food is a big deal in Vancouver, culture also gets high marks.

In summer, get your theater fix at Bard on the Beach, the city’s highly touted professional Shakespeare festival that takes place on the waterfront in Vanier Park.

In its 23rd season, the festival, which is the largest of its kind in Western Canada, is a beloved season tradition for many Vancouverites.

It’s famous for the high-caliber of its performances, as well as its eye-popping location.

The unique stage with its open-back tent allows the majestic northern mountains and Vancouver city views to function as the literal backdrop for its plays.

Each summer, four of the Bard’s plays are produced. This season’s lineup included “The Taming of the Shrew,” “Macbeth,” “The Merry Wives of Windsor” and “King John.”

For adventure, head out of town a short way to Horseshoe Bay and hop on a sea safari at Sewell’s Marina.

Your two-hour guided ride will take you around Howe Sound and into the Strait of Georgia for an eco-nature tour.

You’ll find yourself racing beside steep cliffs, nosing into caves and viewing harbor seals at play, while catching glimpses of cormorants and majestic bald eagles soaring overhead.

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Staff Photo/Deborah Stone. Attractions, such as Yue Minjun’s famous bronze sculpture, “A-Maze-ing Laughter,” emerge as you stroll along Vancouver’s waterfront.
Spectacular waterfront homes line the banks and hillsides, along with stands of striking arbutus trees.

 

Your craft is a high-speed, 30-foot rigid hull inflatable boat and you’ll be well-equipped to handle the whipping wind and water spray while decked out in special Mustang Integrity suits.

And yes, they make you look and feel like the Pillsbury Doughboy!

Don’t be surprised if your captain decides to suddenly do a series of doughnuts during the tour to jar you from your state of seeming complacency.

Ladies, the results are just as good as a microdermabrasion treatment, so you’ll be able to save yourself a trip to the spa.

If your recreation tastes are tamer, take a stroll around 1,000-acre Stanley Park with its forested trails, sandy beaches and host of attractions including a collection of hand-carved totem poles and the renowned Vancouver Aquarium.

Allow some time for reflection at the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Chinese Garden, a classical Chinese garden known for its traditional design.

It’s a serene oasis in the midst of busy Chinatown. Know that you can easily satisfy all your appetites in Vancouver, but you’ll still leave hungry for more of this dynamic city.

If you go:

Stay

St. Regis Hotel (intimate boutique hotel in an ideal central location): www.stregishotel.com

Dine

Oakwood Canadian Bistro – www.theoakwood.ca

Sanafir – www.sanafir.ca

Campagnolo – www.campagnolorestaurant.ca

Suggested Attractions

Edible Canada’s Granville Island Public Market tour: www.ediblecanada.com

Bard on the Beach: www.bardonthebeach.org

Sewell’s Marina Sea Safari: www.sewellsmarina.com

Stanley Park: www.stanleypark.org

Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Chinese Garden: www.vancouverchinesegarden.com

For more information on all things Vancouver: www.tourismvancouver.com

Charleston woos visitors with its sultry Southern charms

  • Written by Deborah Stone
Charleston Carriage Deborah
Horse or mule-drawn carriage ride tours take visitors back in history through some of Charleston’s oldest neighborhoods. Staff photo/Deborah Stone
It’s impossible to be immune to the allure of Charleston.

The city oozes and drips charm, overwhelming your senses with its intoxicating ambiance, gracious Southern hospitality, colorful history and rich culture.

I was prepared to like Charleston before my mid-May visit, purely based on the continuous travel pub awards it receives for “America’s Prettiest Place,” “America’s Most Mannered City” and #1 U.S. City.

But, I was taken aback at the school girl infatuation I felt once I got there. To say I was besotted and smitten with the place would be an understatement. My attraction to the atmosphere and environment was instant and magnetic.

Charleston woos visitors with the rustle of Palmetto fronds in the ocean air and the delicious fragrance of Magnolia trees. It’s a city set in a garden full of cinnamon crepe myrtles and Lady Banks rose vines with stately antebellum homes that sit behind wrought iron gates and meticulously tended flower boxes.

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Built in 1825, the Edmonston-Alston House is a stunning mansion on High Battery with a sweeping view of Charleston’s historic Harbor. Courtesy of ExploreCharleston.com
History seeps from the city’s cobblestone streets and the nearly 4,000 pre-Civil War dwellings that are preserved and cherished by local residents. The best way to get a handle on Charleston’s past is to take Bulldog Tours’ Charleston Stroll, an informative and entertaining walking tour, given from the point of view of a local who will make the town’s history come alive. Your guide will regale you with stories dating from 1670 through the Civil War or the “War of Northern Aggression,” as it is commonly referred to in the South, to the present day. It’s an adventure into the past where you’ll learn about the many events that shaped this fascinating city.

Founded as a colony by eight Englishmen who were given the land by Charles II in appreciation for helping him get back on the throne, Charleston was initially dubbed Oyster Point due to being built on an oyster bank.

In the early years, fear of Spanish invasion caused residents to build a wall around the city for protection. The medieval fortress-like structure lasted for one hundred years before it was finally taken down. Different groups of people were drawn to Charleston, such as the French and the British, and each brought their cultural traditions along with them when they arrived. There were also pirates and sailors who made their way to this coastal settlement, adding a rough and rogue element to the scene. And of course the Africans joined this eclectic mix, via the slave trade.

Landowners at the time viewed the slaves as essential due to the area’s dependence on an agricultural economy – an economy that made Charleston the wealthiest city in the region. Over time, the town became the Sodom and Gomorrah of the South with a reputation for being “party central.”

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The art of making sweetgrass baskets is handed down through generations of the Gullah people, descendants of plantation slaves in South Carolina and Georgia. Staff photo/Deborah Stone.
Today, Charlestonians will tell you that their city is still a lively place that needs no excuse for festivity. For those who wish to get their dose of local lore via non-ambulatory means, there’s also the ever-popular, horse-drawn Palmetto Carriage Tour, where you’ll clip clop along the main streets, taking in the sights of those “Gone with the Wind” times in bygone style.

Among the many buildings of interest in this historical mecca are a number of homes available to tour, such as the Edmonston-Alston House, circa 1825, with incredible views of the Charleston Harbor. It was from this place that General P.T. Beauregard watched the bombardment of Ft. Sumter, which signaled the start of the Civil War. One of the home’s more notable antiquities is an original print of the Ordinance of Secession. The Heyward-Washington House, “Charleston’s Revolutionary War House,” was owned by Thomas Heyward Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and features a lovely formal garden with plants popular in the late 18th century.

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Beautifully manicured gardens are some of Charleston’s most prized possessions. Staff photo/Deborah Stone
One of America’s most important neoclassical dwellings is the Nathanial Russell House. Built in 1808, the home is adorned with elaborate plaster ornamentation and has a stunning free-flying staircase, as well as a joggling board.

This uniquely Charleston invention has been a part of Lowcountry life since the early 1800s and can still be seen on porches, piazzas and in gardens around the area. It’s similar to a rocking chair, but in the shape of a bench, and was supposedly created for a woman suffering from rheumatism. There’s also the old Dock Street Theatre, America’s First Theatre; the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon, one of the three most historically significant buildings of colonial America; and the Powder Magazine, the oldest public building in the Carolinas, which once stored the firepower crucial for defending Charleston. You’ll notice a plethora of churches, as well as hear their bells, as you meander through town, which explains another one of Charleston’s monikers –  “The Holy City.”

On famed Meeting Street, there’s St. Michael’s Church, the oldest church in Charleston. The ground floor consists of private pews that must be bought by a family to sit within, complete with door. It’s akin to having box seats at an opera. On the second floor, there are open pews for those of more modest means. St. Phillip’s Episcopal Church, on Church Street, has had an active congregation since the founding of Charleston, and the French Huguenot Church, also with an active congregation, has an annual service conducted in French.

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A visit to Middleton Place, one of the area’s most fabled plantations, is a colonial era Lowcountry experience that provides a glimpse into the lifestyle of the land barons and their belles. Staff photo/Deborah Stone
At the historic Circular Congregation Church, visitors can experience the sounds that define Charleston, including gospel, Gershwin, jazz, Civil War camp songs and light classics in the noted production, “The Sound of Charleston.”

If you’re a museum-goer, you might want to pop into the Old Slave Mart Museum or the Postal Museum. Make City Hall one of your stops if only to take a peek inside the council chambers where portraits of famous folks line the walls, including one of George Washington that’ll make you chuckle upon closer examination.

Spend some time ambling along The Battery, where antique cannons line up and face out to sea, as if ready to defend Charleston at a moment’s notice. Created as the first line of the city’s defense, The Battery is now a popular riverfront park. Its seawall promenade offers great views of Fort Sumter, Castle Pinckney and Sullivan’s Island Lighthouse, as well as some of the most lavish houses in the entire city. These architectural gems with their massive columns and spacious verandas were built by 18th century plantation owners as summer retreats from the oppressive inland heat.

You’ll notice some of the historic houses have finials on their walls, which are actually the ends of earthquake bolts that run through the building. They were put in after the 1886 earthquake, which destroyed half of downtown Charleston. The bolts are there to keep the house together, ready for the next seismic eruption.

Other homes display the Charleston Single House style of architecture, distinctive for being one-room-wide and having the narrow end of the building facing the street. Two-story verandas, called “piazzas” stretch down the long side. Such residences were well-suited to the hot, humid local climate, as they offered welcome cross-ventilation in the days before air conditioning.

You’ll also notice that some of the houses in Charleston are painted a specific shade of blue, called “Haint Blue,” to confuse evil spirits or “haints’ and keep them at bay.

One of the most photographed streets in town is Rainbow Row, dubbed as such for the exterior pastel colors of the houses. The cotton candy hues are said to have represented the items sold in the ground floor stores and warehouses of the late 1800s style buildings. Pink was for pork, green was for veggies, yellow for grains and blue signified seafood. It’s a virtual rainbow that elicits the well-deserved oohs and aahs from the many lookie-loos.

Another point of interest for visitors is the City Market, the oldest public market in the country. Originally a meat market, the mostly open air venue is now home to an array of artisans selling unique Lowcountry crafts such as sweetgrass baskets made by the Gullah people, descendants of plantation slaves in South Carolina and Georgia. These beautifully crafted coiled baskets are an example of African cultural heritage transported across the Atlantic by enslaved Africans, who used them during the planting and harvesting of rice and cotton.

The craft is handed down from generation to generation and usually learned during childhood. It requires enormous patience and creativity, as there are no set patterns, requiring each artist to develop his/her own style. You can watch the Gullah women and men weave the baskets as you walk through the market. Most are open to answering questions about their handiwork or culture.

When you’ve shopped till you drop and your stomach reminds you that it needs nourishment, you’ll be in for a treat. Food takes star billing in Charleston, a city with over 150 restaurants and numerous award-winning chefs.

It can be overwhelming, however, when it comes to narrowing down this unrivaled selection. Just know that you really can’t go wrong no matter where you go. Seafood reigns supreme in the Lowcountry, from steam ’em and eat ’em shrimp to Carolina crab prepared a dozen different ways. And if you’re an oyster lover, you’re in good company, as they are found on practically every menu in one form or another.

Lunch at Dixie Supply Bakery & Café, a hole-in-the-wall eatery featured in Southern Living, is known for its tomato pie, creamy stone ground grits, bacon bourbon pecan pie and sweet potato cornbread.

Charleston Crab House, another favorite dining establishment and watering hole, has been serving local seafood for twenty years. Their Lowcountry shrimp, collard greens, Carolina lump crab cakes, grits and melt-in-your-mouth hush puppies are just a few of the restaurant’s favorite dishes.

Fleet Landing is also popular. The building it is housed in used to be the home of the Cooper River Ferry before being taken over by the U.S. Navy. In 2003, it became a restaurant with prime waterfront location, serving shrimp and grits with Andouille sausage, fresh yellowfin tuna, okra fries, seafood gumbo, fried oysters with Southern Comfort BBQ sauce and crispy whole fried Southern flounder with apricot glaze. For your meal’s finale, try the key lime pie or decadent white chocolate bread pudding.

One of the best meals I had during my stay was at Amen Street Fish & Raw Bar, a casually hip place serving up such specialties as She Crab soup with sherry, pan roasted wreckfish, popcorn rice, shrimp corndogs and fried green tomatoes, along with an extensive selection of chilled seafood cocktails.

For an overview of Charleston’s food scene, I’d recommend taking Bulldog Tours’ Savor the Flavors Tour, which will introduce you to the area’s varied culinary influences, from Gullah and Native American to French, African and British.

You’ll walk, talk and taste your way through the city, sampling tasty specialties from local restaurants, markets, bakeries and other culinary landmarks, as your guide explains the evolution of Charleston’s cuisine over the past 300 plus years.

No need for lunch if you take this tour, as you’ll get plenty of goodies to nosh on along the way. And your sweet tooth will definitely be satisfied, too, with opportunities to try pralines, Charleston Benne wafers and, of course, the proverbial sweet tea that so many Southerners can’t live without.

No trip to Charleston is complete without a visit to one of the area’s fabled plantations: Middleton Place, Magnolia or Drayton Hall. It’s a colonial era Lowcountry experience that gives you a glimpse into the lifestyle of the land barons and their belles.

Middleton Place, for example, is home to America’s oldest landscaped gardens. Known as one of South Carolina’s most enduring icons, these enchanting and graceful gardens or garden “rooms” are laid out with precise symmetry and balance, leading to a climactic view of the well-known Butterfly Lakes and the winding Ashley River beyond.

Owner Henry Middleton served as the second president of the First Continental Congress and his son Arthur was a signer of the Declaration of Independence. The main house is a museum of rare family furniture and portraits, while the stable yards are full of craftspeople demonstrating the skills performed by slaves. Throughout your stay in this sultry gem of a city, you’ll find yourself continually embraced by the hospitality of its residents.

Charlestonians are genteel folks who are proud of their history and culture, and they are always more than happy to share it with visitors. And if you ask politely, you might just get them to tell you the secrets of their slow, congenial lifestyle.


If you go:

For all things Charleston, contact the Charleston Area Convention & Visitors Bureau at: 800-774-0006 or www.explorecharleston.com.

Bulldog Tours (Charleston Stroll, Savor the Flavors and other walking tours): 843-722-8687 or www.bulldogtours.com.

Accommodations range from cozy B&Bs and historic inns to nationwide chain hotels.

I stayed at Courtyard by Marriott Charleston Historic District, which was prominently situated and walking distance to all the city’s major sights, restaurants and shopping areas: 843-805-7900 or www.charlestonhotel.com.

Release your inner child on a Wenatchee River raft trip

  • Written by Deborah Stone

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People from all over come to the Wenatchee River, one of the most popular and accessible rafting adventures in the country. Courtesy photo.
How do you get six adults to do the Hokey Pokey while balancing on the edges of a raft in the middle of the Wenatchee River?

Simply tell them to do it — and they will. That’s “guide power” for you.

It happens the minute you hop in the boat when you relinquish all control to the man or woman at the helm.

You and your fellow rafters are a team now and your job is to obey the commands of your guide, without question.

And, yes, this might include taking part in water fights with other boats, hanging Titanic-style off the front of the raft as you approach a formidable wall of water or standing in the middle of the raft clutching a rope as you spin in circles of churning water, in mechanical bull-riding fashion.

You might think only kids get a rush out of such experiences, but surprisingly enough, adults revel in it, too.

I’ve seen it time and time again on every raft trip I’ve taken, from the Salmon River in Idaho to the mighty Colorado through the Grand Canyon.

There’s just something about being on the river, away from it all, that brings out the inner child in everyone. Even when civilization is in stone-tossing distance, like it is on the Wenatchee, you still feel removed from the daily trappings of society.

Surrounding you on your 12-mile journey from Leavenworth to Cashmere are verdant forests, fertile orchards and the majestic, snow-capped Cascades.

Mother Nature is at her best and Kodak moments abound. People from all over the state and elsewhere come to the Wenatchee, as it is one of the most popular and accessible rafting adventures in the country.

With its headwaters in the heart of the central Cascades and the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area, the river has the largest volume of raftable whitewater in Washington.

In the late spring and early summer, it’s considered a class III-IV river. This is big water season and notorious for providing the most thrills and chills.

On my early June trip on the Wenatchee, the water was moving at 13,000 cubic feet per second, which is slightly above the average flow of around 10,000 cubic feet. And it was cold — hypothermia inducing cold — to the tune of somewhere around 35 degrees Fahrenheit.

Later in the season, however, the water temperature warms up, along with the increase in air temperature.

The river is then rated a class II-III and is much tamer, making it suitable for younger children and families.

During high season, wetsuits, spray jackets and booties (provided by the company) help with insulation, but know you will get wet and that initial icy spray is just a harbinger of what’s to come further down the river when you hit the major rapids.

Safety is the primary concern for most, if not all rafting companies.

At River Riders, the outfitter I chose for my Wenatchee trip, the guides will remind you that safety is paramount to the fun factor.

The company, which has been in operation since 1974, has an excellent reputation in the industry.

It’s known for having a fleet of veteran guides, who delight in sharing their passion for rafting with others. They will regale you with tales of the area and provide interesting facts about its geological formations and history.

They’ll also entertain you with their own style of stand-up comedy and, of course, they’ll do their best to bring out your inner child.

The river meanders, twists and turns through the valley. It has a good mix of calm, leisurely stretches and crazy, roller-coaster waves that leave you exhilarated and pumped with adrenaline.

Some of the more hellacious rapids on the Wenatchee have been dubbed with amusing monikers such as “Rock n’ Roll,” “Indigestion,” “Gorilla Falls,” “Drunkard’s Drop,” “Snowblind” and “Granny’s Panties.”

You’ll hear their roar before you see them and it only ratchets up the anticipation, as you get in “ready” mode and prepare to ride the  wild wave train.

As each boat makes it through, rafters raise their paddles high in celebration of their accomplishment. On my trip, there was added excitement when two rafts flipped over.

Fortunately, they were comprised of mostly of guides-in-training and rookie guides, who were out practicing on the river.

In true emergency form, however, those in nearby rafts pulled out the “swimmers” and helped grab errant rafts and paddles.

The entire procedure and operation was performed quickly and smoothly, minimizing any issues that might have had a chance to develop.

It was an impressive display of teamwork and skill that hammered home the emphasis on safety first and foremost.

Two and a half high-octane hours later, we arrived in Cashmere, hopped on a bus and headed back to the company’s site in Leavenworth, where a hearty BBQ lunch awaited us.

While chowing down on veggies and dip, grilled chicken, hot dogs and fresh fruit, we entertained each other with memorable high notes of our trip.


And no, there wasn’t a food fight, nor did anyone dance on the picnic tables.

We were once again on terra firma and our inner child had retreated.

If you go:
There are a number of outfitters that offer rafting trips on the Wenatchee.
River Riders, with their 30-plus years of experience, state-of-the-art gear and attention to detail and safety, are one of the more established and reputable companies in the business. They also do trips on all of the other major rivers in Washington, including the Tieton, Yakima, Methow, White Salmon, Nooksack, Skykomish and Klickitat.
For more information: 800-448-7238 or www.riverrider.com
All of Washington State’s Best Rivers
· Professional, Friendly, Entertaining River Guides
· 30+ years of Experience
· Our Famous Attention to Detail and Safety
· State-of-the-Art Rafting and Safety gear
· Longtime Reputation for Leadership and Excellence
· Great and Famous Riverside BBQ