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Poets Cove: gem of the Gulf Islands

  • Written by Deborah Stone

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Kenmore Air seaplane arriving at Bedwell Harbor. Photo by Deborah Stone.
In my opinion, riding in a seaplane is perhaps the ultimate flying experience, providing the weather cooperates and you have a good pair of earplugs.

There are no long waits to taxi down endless runways; instead, you simply glide along the water and then smoothly rise up in the air in seemingly effortless fashion.

On a recent trip to the Canadian Gulf Islands, I decided to opt for a Kenmore Air seaplane as my transport, instead of the usual car/ferry combo that most folks commonly use to reach this special getaway.

One minute I was looking out at the Lake Union dock and the Seattle skyline, and the next, I was above it all, but not so far up that I wasn’t able to distinguish buildings, boats and rock formations from my magnificent bird’s eye perch.

In just a little over an hour, including a brief stop for customs at Sydney (where a group of sea otters lounging on the pier along with a pair of Canadian Mounties greeted the plane), I reached my destination for the weekend, Poets Cove on Pender Island.

The plane landed right in front of the resort, touching gently down on the water in a welcoming kiss. In minutes, I was on land, refreshed and exhilarated from my scenic flight and ready to explore my new surroundings.

Pender Island is one of about 225 Gulf Islands, most of which are small, uninhabited and accessible only by private boat. Pender and five others, including Salt Spring, Mayne, Galiano, Saturna and Gabriola, comprise a group of the largest and most accessible of the islands, with year round populations that inhabit them. Known for their heavenly beaches, lush forests, rolling countryside, abundant flora and fauna and balmy climate, these islands offer visitors peace and tranquility amidst a spectacular natural setting.

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View of waterfall at resort and harbor below. Photo by Deborah Stone.
Pender Island is actually comprised of two islands, North and South Pender, which are joined by a picturesque, one-lane wooden bridge.

Together, the islands measure 14-square miles in size and are home to a population of 2,200, a figure that almost doubles during the summer months. As far back as 6,000 years ago, the Coast Salish aboriginal people hunted and fished around these islands. They were permanently settled in the 1800s and named after Daniel Pender, master of the ship “Plumper.”

Over the years, steamships began to arrive, dropping off mail, freight and passengers to the small harbor on South Pender Island. In May of 1959, the Bedwell Resort and Marina was built on the banks and hillside of this bay and in time, the place became a favorite refuge with boaters.

But in 2002, the modest resort, showing signs of age, was torn down and construction began on a new luxury property in order to make way for a new era of tourism on Pender. A little over a year ago, Poets Cove Resort & Spa officially opened and began welcoming visitors to its docks with warm island hospitality.

Seemingly remote, in the heart of Canada’s newest Marine National Park, the resort is actually geographically central to the urban areas of Seattle, Victoria and Vancouver, making it an accessible getaway for those in the Pacific Northwest. It has fast become a year-round destination that appeals to couples and families, as well as to corporate types seeking a retreat. Designed in classic West Coast style, with breathtaking water views, Poets Cove is a jewel amid the rugged beauty of its landscape.

The resort consists of a 110-slip marina, a 22-room lodge, nine luxury villas and 15 deluxe cottages, a fine dining room and lounge, spacious meeting/conference rooms, two heated outdoor swimming pools, a fitness center, tennis court and a world class spa. All of the rooms have spectacular ocean views and feature large outdoor patios and stone fireplaces.

Thoughtful touches abound from local seashells filled with bath salts infused with aromatic lavender to handsome writing desks, complete with elegant coil bound notebooks for guests to record their musings or reflections. The notebook nicely ties in with the resort’s moniker. Island lore has it that this idyllic spot and romantic setting by the bay was a favorite for local couples to become engaged.

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Poets Cove Resort & Spa. Photo by Deborah Stone.
The owners of the new resort chose to name their creation, “Poets Cove,” as they felt it captured the intimate feeling and lyrical spirit of this special place. Although the resort and Pender Island itself offer many experiences for quiet contemplation and plenty of opportunities for well-deserved R&R, there are a number of other activities visitors can engage in, from athletic pursuits to sight-seeing and cultural events.

Poets Cove offers kayaking adventures, sailing courses, deep sea fishing, scuba diving instruction (the region has been rated as one of the world’s best for diving), educational eco excursions, guided hikes and bicycle tours of the island. Pender is well-known for its artisans, but there are only a few galleries and shops open to the public.

One of my favorites is Renaissance Gallery, an eclectic world bazaar specializing in glass jewelry creations and antiques. The island also has a reputation for having one of the best disc golf courses in North America.

To the uninitiated, disc golf is an international sport played with a Frisbee instead of clubs and balls. Pender’s 27-hole course is set in the middle of the woods and folks from all over come here to challenge their skills in this unique sport.

Guests can also rent a wide variety of boats from the resort and explore the beaches and secluded coves tucked along the coastline. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot seal otters, harbor seals and porpoises frolicking in the water and spy eagles soaring high above the Arbutus trees.

Many guests at the lodge opt to do the Mt. Norman by the Sea excursion, which involves taking a boat shuttle into Beaumont Marine Park and then going on a guided hike to the summit of Mt. Norman. At 244 meters, this peak is the highest point on the island and on a clear day, you can have breathtaking views of the surrounding Gulf Islands and even a San Juan Island or two.

I was fortunate to have the weather gods with me when I made the two kilometer trek up the mountain. Colorful foxglove were in bloom along the path and when I reached the top, I was rewarded with one of Mother Nature’s dazzling displays. The sea sparkled below and Saltspring, Morsby, Sydney, North Pender and Stuart Islands were in full view.

After taking in this dramatic show, I headed back down the mountain and made a beeline for the spa for some indulgent pampering.

The spa at Poets Cove is aptly named “Susurrus,” a word meaning a whispering or murmuring sound, like that made by the waves or the wind. It’s also the sound of contentment that escapes your lips after experiencing one of the spa’s therapeutic treatments.

In this oasis of well-being, I sipped herbal tea and relaxed with a hot scented lavender neck pack, before heading outside to sit in the eucalyptus steam cave. Set in a rock grotto, underneath the veil of a 10-meter waterfall, this sandstone cave was built to harness an ancient healing practice. Inside, the temperatures range from 110 to 130 degrees Fahrenheit and as you sit on one of the benches built into the rock, steam envelops you, causing you to sweat and release toxins.

If you get too hot, you can splash cool water from a nearby fountain on your face or there’s also a cold plunge shower outside the cave for a full body refresher. Being in the steam cave can best be described as participating in a primordial ritual to revitalize and restore the body. As the steam misted and enclosed me in a warm cocoon, I was aware only of the sounds of the cascading waterfall overhead and my own breathing. I remained in this almost trancelike state until I heard another person enter the cave, at which point I left, feeling cleansed and calm. It only seemed natural to walk across the rocks and take a soak in the nearby Ocean Falls Jacuzzi for the complete Calgon experience.

As I sank into the bubbling cauldron, I gazed out at the sea, taking note of all the different water craft making their way in and out of the bay. Bedwell Harbor is an active marina where boats of all sizes and shapes are moored. Large, luxury yachts come in alongside small pleasure craft, while float planes land and take off on a regular basis. Despite this flow of traffic, it is a peaceful spot, loaded with quaint island charm.

All too soon, I was called into the spa for my treatment. Susurrus offers a wide range of relaxation and esthetic services, from hot stone massages and seaweed wraps to salt glows and organic facials.

The 3,500 foot facility has six treatment rooms, some with ocean views and many with fireplaces, and prides itself on incorporating Mother Earth fundamentals to create its signature treatments.

During my Poets Cove Signature Massage, my therapist’s hands were gifted instruments that worked wonders on my knots of stress. But it was the Raindrop Therapy that was the true magic. Oils of basil, thyme, peppermint, wintergreen, marjoram, Cyprus and frankincense were dropped in a sequence along various points on my spine and then spread in feather fashion outward on the rest of my back. The oils each had special properties. Some helped to promote relaxation and stabilize circulation, whereas others induced deeper breathing and soothed aches and pains. As the drops lightly fell on me, I embarked on an amazing sensory, wellness voyage that resulted in a sensation of complete balance and harmony. This feeling of well-being continued throughout the duration of my stay at Poets Cove.

I left the resort, rejuvenated in body, mind and spirit, but as soon as my plane took off from the dock, I was already greedily planning a return visit to this Gulf Island gem.

Whistler: a playground for all seasons

  • Written by Deborah Stone

The Sea to Sky Highway makes a dramatic backdrop and scenic corridor to Whistler, B.C., Canada’s renowned ski resort.

With its winding curves, drop-dead ocean views and panoramic Coast Mountain range, this road is a treat for sore eyes after several hours of monotonous freeway driving along the I-5 corridor.

At each bend, my family saw something to ooh and ah at, whether it was a thunderous waterfall or a black bear hiding in the bushes (yes, we actually spied one and then watched as it crossed the highway right in front of our car). As the road began to climb in earnest and we got closer to our destination, we got our first glimpse of Whistler’s fairy tale-like village, set between two craggy peaks.

We had come to this resort, not to ski as so many others do, but to find out what else there was to do in the off-season at this popular destination.

And although there were plenty of people still making their way up the mountain to the remaining few runs open for skiing and snowboarding, there were also lots of folks like us, bent on discovering Whistler’s other allures.

After settling in at our well-appointed accommodations, (an ample Montebello townhouse minutes from the main village area), we headed to our first activity for the weekend, a zipline ride with Ziptrek Ecotour.

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Riding the eco zipline 150 feet off the ground gives thrill seekers a breathtaking view of the picturesque forest valley below. Photo by Deborah Stone.
I had first become enamored with this Tarzan treetop ride when I traveled to Costa Rica several months ago and was thrilled to learn that a similar adventure exists here in North America, only hours away from my home.

Although the experience was not new to me, it was a novel one for the rest of my family, and I delighted in watching their expressions and hearing their exhilarating comments as they flew through the trees.

Ziptrek’s tour area is between Blackcomb and Whistler mountains, just minutes above Whistler Village, and participants are taken through the area’s rare ancient rainforest on a network of five adrenaline-rushing zipline cables spanning over a half a mile.

Guides, who also serve as naturalists, provide facts about Whistler’s environment along the way and explain how one of the earth’s most productive forest ecosystems supports the life within it.

The course is a feat of engineering and takes riders up in the canopy of 1,000-year- old trees, over rugged mountainous terrain and across the rushing waters of Fitzsimmons Creek. The longest cable spans 1,100 feet and the highest is 150 feet off the ground, giving thrill seekers a breathtaking view of the picturesque forest valley below.

Unlike the zipline ride I took in Costa Rica, this one has built in safety brake mechanisms in the cable, which help to slow riders down at the end of the line. Holding on is unnecessary, although most folks instinctively do, at least initially. By the final cable however, most folks feel comfortable and guides encourage them to ride backwards or even upside down, for the truly adventurous!

For another view of the area, we decided to ride the Whistler Gondola up to the top of Whistler Mountain (6,000 feet above sea level). This is a 20-minute ride each way and as we ascended, we took note of the mountain bikers descending through the Mountain Bike Park. The park offers over 125 miles of lift-serviced, gravity-fed trails, ranging from gentle banked curved tracks for beginners to tight, twisty tracks and steep drop offs for expert riders.

Although our bird’s eye position above gave us a unique perspective of these hard-core, body-armored trail warriors, the best place to view them is from the base of the bike park where you can watch them come screaming down the lower part of the mountain, mud-drenched and pumped up with adrenaline.

About three-quarters of the way on our ride up the mountain, we began seeing the first patches of snow, and by the time we got to the top, a spring blizzard was in process.

We stayed long enough to check out the skiers and snowboarders and throw a few snowballs before hustling back on the next gondola for our return journey.

The ride back down the mountain was equally as interesting as we watched the changes occur from one ecosystem to another and experienced the varying weather conditions at the different altitudes.

My family was inspired after seeing the mountain bikers in action and although tempting as it might have been to join them, we decided on a more tame approach to cycling.

Whistler has a Valley Trail system that is perfect for cyclists who prefer not to careen at breakneck speeds down the obstacle courses of the Mountain Bike Park. With bikes rented from Backroads Whistler, we set out for an afternoon to explore the area at a leisurely pace.

The Valley Trail system extends through the Whistler Valley, past golf courses, lakes, rivers, residential areas and hotels. Pick up a map at any bike shop in the Village and it’s easy to choose a trail to follow, based on your ability level.

We chose to head out toward the Lost Lake trails, opting for natural scenery, as opposed to buildings and golf courses.

Because the weather was very changeable that day, there weren’t too many folks out on the trails, but that was just fine with us, as we enjoyed having the place mostly to ourselves. The lake was peaceful and quiet as we circled it, stopping once or twice to take in the view, before continuing on to discover another scenic vista point.

We found the trail system to be very clearly marked and even if you made a wrong turn, you could always find your way back easily.

After a few hours and a downpour or two later, we returned the bikes to the shop and headed into the movie theatre to get dry for awhile.

In addition to all the outdoor activities that Whistler offers, it also has its share of indoor pursuits for those times when the weather just isn’t cooperating.

With over 200 shops, ranging from art galleries to sporting equipment stores, two movie theatres, more than 90 restaurants, several indoor sports centers and a museum, there are numerous places to seek shelter when inhospitable elements force you inside.

Walking around the pedestrian-only Whistler Village is a treat in itself. Its cobblestone streets, alpine style architecture and open-air cafes make you feel like you’ve stepped into a small European town.

There’s a real international flavor about the place and it’s not only the various cuisines (serving everything from spicy Thai to sushi and traditional North American fare) that give it this feeling, but the cultural diversity of the employees and visitors that come from all parts of the world to this popular resort.

The key words at Whistler are “options” and “variety,” as it’s a destination that has something to please everyone, from choice of accommodations to activities and dining.

Skiers, snowboarders and bikers all share the terrain, along with hikers, fishermen, boaters, golfers and rock climbers.

It’s a playground for all seasons within a spectacular alpine natural setting.

Brentwood Bay: a sanctuary by the sea

  • Written by Deborah Stone

brentwood_aI’m pretty bad when it comes to identifying flowers and plants. I admit that I don’t know the difference between a dahlia and a crocus or an iris and a forget-me-not. All I know is that I love their magnificent colors and the heavenly scents they emit when in bloom.

I refuse to let my pathetic grasp of horticultural lexicon stop me from enjoying nature’s creations. Take for example, a recent trip to the renowned Butchart Gardens in Victoria.

Although I was with a friend who has the greenest of thumbs, and who would have been happy to introduce me to the names of the various plants and flowers we saw, I was content just tiptoeing through the foliage, oohing and ahing away at this Edenesque paradise.

It had been many years since I’d last visited the Butchart Gardens and I had forgotten just how incredible the place is, especially in summer when it’s a palette of vivid hues and textures. Began in 1904 as an effort to beautify a barren limestone quarry on the 130 acre estate of Robert and Jennie Butchart, the Butchart Gardens started modestly with some sweet pea seeds and a rose bush.

With Jennie Butchart’s vision and hard work, the gardens grew to occupy fifty-five acres and are known worldwide today as a horticultural masterpiece.

This year, the Butchart Gardens celebrate 100 years in bloom and there are a number of activities planned to commemorate this anniversary, including historical displays, animal topiaries, Saturday night fireworks and outdoor entertainment (summer months only) and the addition of two totem poles carved on site by First Nations artists.

If you go, the best time to visit the gardens is early in the morning when they first open. When we arrived, the place was peaceful and quiet, devoid of the throngs of tourists who most often arrive via tour bus later in the morning.

We walked leisurely through the different gardens, from the spectacularly designed Sunken Garden and the formal Italian Garden to the Zen influenced Japanese Garden.

It was, however, the fragrances in the Rose Garden that brought me to a state of floral ecstasy. Hundreds of varieties of roses, all in bloom, fill each space of the garden, in beds, on tall, upright bushes, and on arbors, pergolas and trellises. I felt as if I had just walked into one of Monet’s paintings. It was an intoxicating feast for the senses and I took my time imbibing in this display.

After a blissful morning in the gardens, my friend and I returned to our digs for the weekend, the newly opened Brentwood Bay Lodge & Spa.

brentwood_bThe lodge is nestled on a pristine inlet of the Saanich Peninsula, on the south end of Vancouver Island, and across the water from the Butchart Gardens, in the sleepy community of Brentwood Bay.

It is Western Canada’s newest oceanfront resort and an ideal destination for those seeking a tranquil, getaway haven. This intimate boutique lodge consists of 33 well-appointed oceanfront suites, an elegant spa, an upscale restaurant and wine bar, casual pub, wine and spirits shop, year-round heated swimming pool, hot tub and full-service marina.

Staff are warm and friendly, and pride themselves on providing hospitality at its finest.

My friend and I made the spa our first stop, as we were both intrigued by some of the more unique treatments offered on the spa menu, such as the Vino Stomp, a foot ritual that uses whole red grapes (high in anti-oxidants) along with various essential oils and botanicals; the Vino and Honey Wrap (with, you guessed it, some more of those red grapes!), the Icelandic Algae Facial, and Lushly Hands, a flower and avocado hand treatment inspired by ancient Polynesian rites.

We opted, instead, to try the Essence of Life Signature Massage, an amazing one and a half hour therapeutic treatment that consists of a rosemary scrub, followed by an application of Oceanic Ribbon weed down the spine, a hot rocks massage with river granite stones and then the ultimate in relaxation - the spa’s signature full body massage.

I was putty in the therapist’s hands and by the time she was finished, I felt stress-free and re-energized. Dinner at the Arbutus Grille, the resort’s fine dining restaurant, was quite the experience.

In a Pacific Northwest lodge-style room with views of the inlet and far-reaching mountains, diners are served Vancouver Island cuisine emphasizing fresh, natural ingredients with wonderful flavors, colors and textures.

Each course is a work of art, created by Executive Chef Brock Windsor, however, patience was definitely the key to enjoying one’s dinner during the evening we dined in the restaurant.

Service was painfully slow and although Sommelier Brian Storen kept us occupied with various wine tastings, the meal dragged on far beyond an acceptable time period.

I’m sure with time, though; the dining room will work out its food service kinks. A more casual alternative to the Arbutus Grille is the lodge’s Marine Pub, right next door, which, in addition to its west coast menu, serves up fine regional craft beers and wines and offers indoor and outdoor seating.

Off-site eateries are few, but just a short walk down the street from the lodge, there’s the charming Sea Horses Café. We opted to dine there the following night and enjoyed its picturesque, cozy ambiance and water views.

A classical guitarist played while we munched on baked brie, followed by salmon and garlic prawns.

Brentwood Bay Lodge’s oceanside location makes it an ideal setting for a wide array of outdoor pursuits, including kayaking, scuba-diving, fishing and hiking.

Guests can select from a menu of such activities offered at the Eco-Adventure Center at the lodge’s marina. My friend and I chose a Wilderness Eco-Cruise to explore the natural and cultural history of the Saanich Inlet. Captain Matt Smiley met us dockside and proceeded to guide us for the next two hours through Finlayson Arm, the most southern fjord on the North American coast. Captain Smiley (a man who really does live up to his name) told us he was going to take us “gunkholing,” a British expression that means beachcombing from a boat.

We poked into various bays and explored the coast, learning about the types of sea creatures, birds and fauna that make their home in this part of the area.

We were rewarded with glimpses of baby seals lounging on the rocks, stellar sea lions chomping on fish and bald eagles soaring across the sky.

Beautiful old growth Douglas firs, maples, cedars and handsome Arbutus, or Madrona, trees stood as proud sentinels of the shoreline as we motored by.

Captain Smiley also operates the convenient water taxi service to the Butchart Gardens; a trip that takes just minutes and drops you off at the Gardens’ secluded rear entrance, thus avoiding the crowds that throng through the main gates.

Although we didn’t venture into Victoria, except for arriving and departing there via the Victoria Clipper, it’s an easy twenty-five minute drive over to the city from Brentwood Bay.

For us, a weekend away at a sanctuary by the sea was what the doctor ordered and Brentwood Bay Lodge & Spa was the perfect remedy.

Oregon lures visitors with its wild, untamed coastline

  • Written by Deborah Stone

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A seagull appears to enjoy the view of Haystack Rock, one of the most photographed sights of the area. Photo by Deborah Stone.
A tour of some of Oregon’s universities for my college-bound son was the impetus for a recent trek to our neighboring state to the south. To make a vacation out of the trip, we decided to tack on a few days and head over to the coast for some beach fun a la Northwest style.

First stop was Florence, smack dab in the center of Oregon’s scenic coastal Highway 101. In addition to its wild and untamed beaches, full of caves and rocky inlets, Florence is also well-known for its sand dunes. The Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area stretches 50 miles from Florence south to Coos Bay, Ore., and although it may not be as grand as the Sahara, this area is a sight of unique wonders that may make visitors actually feel as if they’re lost amid the African desert landscape.

The dunes are enormous in their proportions and can reach up to two and a half miles inland from the ocean. They rise to heights of more than 385 feet and their contours change continually with the force and action of the wind. One week a dune might be a towering giant and then the next time you see it, it might be a deep sand canyon.

Visitors to the dunes have a variety of recreation opportunities, including camping, hiking, horseback riding and sandboarding (“surfing” on the sand). The adrenaline pumping folks, however, want to ride this rollercoaster landscape in mechanized vehicles ranging from dune buggies to ATVs.

With two teenage sons and a husband who refuses to grow old gracefully, I knew that I would be outnumbered in our recreational choice for the day.

There was just too much testosterone to battle! We headed to Sand Dune Frontier, a locally owned company that rents vehicles to explore the dunes, and there we prepped for our wild ride through the soaring mountains of sand.

Padded in armor, with a host of instructions ringing in our ears, we set off to explore the area on our own. One son rode in a Polaris Quad, the other was in a one-seat Mini-Rail buggy. My husband and I shared a two-seat Rail. Through the massive sandy slopes, we carved our way, inventing our course as we went. We would climb to the peak of a large dune with an “I think I can” mentality, then slow down before we headed off the steep precipice, our screams and laughter catching in the wind as we dropped into a gaping abyss. The sand furiously whipped around us and attacked our faces and bodies with the vengeance of 1,000 needles. And yes, we got stuck a few times when we overestimated our abilities, or should I say when my eager husband overestimated his! But, the excitement and the thrills of this Disneyesque adventure made it all worthwhile, and more importantly, the looks on my sons’ faces as they careened over this amazing, out-of-Africa landscape were priceless.

Another popular outing in the Florence area is the Sea Lion Caves, located about 10 miles north of town on Highway 101.

About 200 Steller sea lions make their homes here in the world’s oldest and largest known sea cave. Visitors take an elevator 2,008 feet down to the ocean level to view these slippery-furred creatures in their natural environment.

It was amusing to hear them barking and honking and to watch them ride the waves into the cave or play king of the hill, as they tussled with one another and jockeyed for position on the rocks.

Many congregated in groups, lolling around in a semicomatose state; others were very active and jumped into the water splashing everywhere.

A video and an assortment of displays that describe the habits of this type of sea lions are located within the observation room. The winter months are an especially opportune time to visit, as it is likely that more sea lions will be inside.

One note of caution: the place has a definite strong odor that may make visitors shorten their time down in the cave area!

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Heceta Head Lighthouse is one of Oregon’s most beautiful and most famous lighthouses. Photo by Deborah Stone.
Just a few miles from the caves is a must-see sight for lighthouse fanatics and for those seeking a spectacular, drop-dead view of the Pacific. About a half mile from the main road is Heceta Head Lighthouse, one of Oregon’s most beautiful and most famous lighthouses.

As you walk up the hill from the parking lot, you will pass what used to be the keeper’s house, now a lovely B&B, and then you will come to the lighthouse itself. Tour guides take visitors up into the building and explain its history, as well as provide info about its operation, then and now. From the top level, you can look down through the windows at the crashing ocean and imagine the relief among sailors when they saw Heceta’s beacon of light flash in the middle of a dark, foggy night at sea.

Newport is the next big (by Oregon coast standards) town one comes to heading north on Highway 101. It’s a true working fishing village with miles of sandy beaches and tide pools, protected by lighthouses that once brought the great ships to safe harbor when Oregon was young and still undiscovered. Its historic bayfront is home to some of the state’s largest commercial fishing fleets, and where daily, fisherman haul in their catches of shrimp, oysters, crab, salmon and others wonders of the deep.

Fresh seafood abounds here, as it does up and down the towns that dot the coastline. After strolling the waterfront shops and eating our fill of fish and chips and clam chowder, we took a peek in the renowned Oregon Coast Aquarium and the Hatfield Marine Science Center where we encountered habitats and animals that were here centuries before the first settlers arrived.

As one drives the coast highway, it’s the proverbial fresh crab signs, chowder houses, souvenir shops, antique stores and weather-beaten abodes that give this area its identity. There’s a fudge and salt water taffy shop on each corner and a store selling kites on the other. Charming romantic inns are tucked away, along with chain hotels and mom- and-pop motels. Bursts of sunshine mix with dark storm clouds and if you’re not happy with the weather, the old adage, “wait a minute and it will change” works well.

A trip to the Oregon Coast wouldn’t be complete without a quick stop at the Tillamook County Creamery Association Visitors Center in Tillamook. Home of the famed Tillamook cheese, it’s a popular tourist destination where you can take a self-guided tour of the cheesemaking process, sample a variety of cheeses and get a bite to eat at the Farmhouse Café, where the specialty is - you guessed it - grilled cheese sandwiches on sourdough bread!

Top that off with one of the creamery’s fabulous ice cream cones (try the marionberry) and you’ll roll back into the car.

Our final destination was Cannon Beach, a town that’s known for the scenic beauty of its seastacks offshore and its headlands onshore.

Famous Haystack Rock stands guard out in the water and it is one of the most photographed sights of the area. At 235-feet high, it is the third largest coastal monolith in the world and has been designated as a marine and bird sanctuary.

There are many intertidal creatures that make their home in the tide pools around the rock, such as barnacles, starfish, crabs, sea sculpins and anemones.

Several bird species nest on the rock in the summer, the most colorful being the tufted puffin. The nine miles of wide, walkable beach are perfect for flying kites, playing Frisbee, building sand castles or simply relaxing on a piece of driftwood and being lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves. I sat with a book (which I never quite got to read) and just watched the water and listened to the shorebirds, while my family played a rousing game of Nerf football. Later, we visited many of the quaint shops and art galleries that line the town’s streets. There are a number of good restaurants and cafes to grab a quick bite or have a leisurely meal. Clam chowder at Doogers, pizza at Fultano’s, haystack bread at Cannon Beach Bakery and peanut butter milkshakes at The Local Scoop are favorites with my family.

But the true winner is the mighty untamed ocean and the magnificent natural setting of the Oregon Coast. That’s what keeps us coming back.

Hotel Suggestions: In Florence, we stayed at Driftwood Shores, 1-800-422-5091 or www.driftwoodshores.com. In Newport, the Best Western Agate Beach Inn at 1-800-547-3310 or www.agatebeachinn.com. In Cannon Beach, the Hallmark Inn at 1-888-448-4449.

Sand Dunes Frontier: Open year round, weather permitting. 541-997-3544 or www.sanddunesfrontier.com.

Sea Lion Caves: Open year round. 541-547-3111 or www.sealioncaves.com.

Tillamook County Creamery Association Visitors Center: 1-800-542-7290 or www.tillamookcheese.com.

Oregon Coast Visitors Association: 1-888-628-2101 or www.visittheoregoncoast.com.

O’Sullivan, O’Donovan, O’Stone, Oh my!

  • Written by Deborah Stone

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Park Hotel in Kenmare. Photo by Deborah Stone.
I may not have kissed the Blarney Stone, nor spied a leprechaun, but I did find my pot of gold and I didn’t even need to look for it at the end of a rainbow.

It was there, ever present, on the kind faces of the people I met, in the haunting, natural beauty of the scenery and in the vibrant Gaelic culture that withstands the test of time in mystical, magical Ireland.

On my recent travels to this land of peat and heather, I quickly became enamored with everything Irish and urged my fellow travelers to call me by my newly adopted name, O’ Stone! Perhaps with a few more freckles, a quick henna rinse and a crash course in the lilting Irish brogue, I might have passed as an Irish lass, but unfortunately, my strong Germanic genes and Yank accent made any such transformation impossible.

Instead, I had to be content to simply inhale, imbibe and take in Ireland with all five of my senses. This is a country to savor slowly. It’s a place that moves at its own pace, like the soft rolling landscape that dominates much of the southwestern parts.

Taking the time to stroll down quaint streets of small market towns and rural villages, sip a pint of Guinness in one of the many quintessential pubs or walk the bucolic countryside is the way to appreciate this treasured island.

Ireland has it all, from castles and medieval ruins to state-of-the-art spas and five star dining establishments.

New mixes with old seamlessly and the visitor can see it all because everywhere is within easy reach of everywhere else.

The country is roughly the size of the state of New Jersey and most of the roads wind their way around the countryside, allowing tourists to get a real feel for the lay of the land. Driving from destination to destination is the best means of transportation (note: driving is done on the left hand side of the road), as Ireland is best experienced when one has the ability to stop at each magnificent, windswept vista or get that perfect photo of baby lambs frolicking after their mother in a meadow of green.

And speaking of green, there is every shade of this color imaginable. I don’t even think Crayola invented enough names to describe the various verdant hues that make up this country’s scenic palette.

My trip focused mainly on the western side of the island and involved travel through the counties of Kerry, Limerick, Clare and Galway. One of the highlights included a stay in Kenmare, one of the several towns located on the popular road that circles the Ring of Kerry. This is one of Ireland’s most picturesque villages with shops painted in all colors of the rainbow, adorned with hand carved signs.

There are many stores selling typical Irish crafts and woolens; of particular note is the Kenmare Lace and Design Centre where visitors can view how the cherished local skill of lacemaking is done, as well as purchase some pieces of beautiful workmanship.

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Joan Crowley is the 82-year-old proprietor of Crowley’s Pub in Kenmare. Photo by Deborah Stone.
When you’ve shopped ’til you’ve dropped, make sure to stop in at Crowley’s Pub for a pint of Guinness and chat with proprietor Joan Crowley, who at 82 years old is still behind the counter pouring the ale. And if you’re lucky, you’ll time your visit to catch a local band playing some real authentic Irish toe-tapping music.

For top rated digs, the Park Hotel is the place to stay. With a history that dates back to 1907, the Park is a charming, elegant Irish country manor estate set on 12 idyllic acres overlooking Kenmare Bay. Its gilded antique furnishings, brocade cushions and original art give it an old world look that takes visitors back in time.

Combine this with a deluxe sybaritic spa, Sámas, and you have the true haven for those seeking the ultimate leisure getaway with traditional Irish hospitality. Sámas (a Gaelic word meaning indulgence of the senses), is a unique place that blends healing and therapeutic traditions from the East and West with the inspiring scenery of Kerry to revive the body, mind and soul.

Guests embark on a three hour therapeutic journey that includes time in the spa’s thermal, treatment and relaxation suites.

The thermal suite was my favorite with a vitality pool, half open to breathtaking views of the forests and mountains that surrounded the wooded property, and equipped with numerous jets to untangle knotty stress.

I decided that I would be content to remain there forever, if not for the body massage that awaited me shortly and the gourmet dinner to follow.

Any fears of bland Irish food loaded with starches were dispelled after my first foray into dining, a la Irish style. I found at each restaurant I ate, that the food was tasty, creatively prepared and of the highest quality, from the great variety of fresh fish, lamb and veal to the earthy, dense homemade breads that accompanies each meal.

And yes, there are potatoes, but they are wonderfully roasted or mashed with herbs, or simply served as chips, seasoned to perfection. Side dishes of veggies, such as turnips and thyme or parsnip chips, are served family style.

Traditional Irish breakfasts are hearty, containing eggs, rashers of bacon, grilled tomatoes, scones and for the more daring, black and white pudding (blood and suet); the latter which I preferred to look at, but not taste! And don’t forget the proverbial cup of tea, which you should add milk to, if you want to do as the Irish do.

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O’Brien Tower at the Clifs of Mohr. Photo by Deborah Stone.
As our trip headed north of Kenmare, we passed through one charming town after another, set against a backdrop of heather clad mountains with peek-a-boo views of the dramatic Atlantic coastline. The light seemed to change quickly with weather patterns that came and went, giving the area a magical quality that heightened the wild beauty of the scenery.

A stop in Listowel, the “literary capital of Ireland,” was a real treat for our group of writers. This lively market town is home to the Kerry Literary and Cultural Centre, a writer’s museum of words and spirit where the imaginative worlds of some of Ireland’s most notable writers are evoked.

The Centre honors over 80 Kerry-based writers, some of whom have become national and international figures in the world of literature, including John B. Keane, Brendan Kennelly and Bryan MacMahon.

Lunch at Glin Castle, one of Ireland’s most historic properties, and an overnight at Gregans Castle Hotel only served to whet my appetite for wanting to see more castles, of which there are hundreds in the country. Glin has been in the FitzGerald family, hereditary Knights of Glin, for over 700 years.

With its decorative plasterwork, collection of Irish furniture and paintings and formal gardens, it’s a gem of a property sitting atop a fabled storytelling landscape. Gregans is located on the Burren, a barren limestone expanse stretching 100 square miles and known as Europe’s largest rock garden.

Located in a remote corner of County Clare, the Burren is a unique lunar-like landscape that has been designated a National Park by the government. It contains over a thousand species of plants and botanists from all over the world come to study the rare plants and flowers that grow here.

Confronted with such an austere, almost surreal terrain, I felt as if I were seeing the first land created on earth. In fact, the Burren is probably the youngest landscape in Europe, settled by man at least 6,000 years ago. This scenery is made even more dramatic when in startling contrast to the soft green and rolling contours usually associated with the west of Ireland.

Gregans Castle is an eighteenth century country house with views of the bare limestone mountains and Galway Bay. It’s a quiet treasure of Ireland with a historic and mystic charm.

Blazing turf fires, home cooked meals using locally grown and organic foods, four poster beds and antique furniture make it an elegant place for those seeking serenity amid a striking landscape. Near the Burren, and not to be missed by visitors who travel through this part of the country, are the Cliffs of Mohr. These majestic cliffs are among the most magnificent stretches of cliff scenery in Ireland.

They front the Atlantic, rising to a height of 700 feet above sea level and stretching for five miles.

It’s a breathtaking experience to climb to the top of O’Brien’s Tower (built at the top of the cliffs in 1835) and experience the spectacular view of the ocean, as well as Ireland’s three Aran Islands, to the west.

Our trip continued as far north as Connemara, a land that exists in the shadow of the sea, where we made a stop at Kylemore Abbey and Garden, home of the Benedictine Order of Nuns and now also, an exclusive private boarding school for girls.

The romantic setting of the castle-like building and its Victorian walled garden make it one of the country’s most visited attractions. When I first saw the place, from across the water, I thought it was a dead-ringer for Hogwarts School, of the Harry Potter fame.

Its massive stone structure with turrets and towers is impressive and daunting, and I could easily imagine the characters from J.K. Rowling’s books practicing their wizardry and magic from within its walls.

Another highlight in the Connemara area is Delphi Valley, a place teeming with natural wonders, lofty summits and an abundance of wildlife.

Set in the heart of this valley, on 300 acres of forested and mountainous land, is a unique destination resort and spa. If you want to escape from it all, this is the place. The Delphi Mountain Resort and Spa is in a remote corner of the Delphi Valley, far away from civilization.

Taking its cue from the surrounding landscape, the resort was designed in local stone and wood and exists in harmony with nature. The spa takes a holistic route towards health and life-style improvement, combining fitness and outdoor activities with relaxation and treatments.

I had a reflexology treatment and an Indian Head Massage; two out-of-this-world experiences that did wonders for the balance between my mind and body. But the true winner was an early morning wilderness walk amid the mist shrouded Mweelrea Mountains.

That was when I experienced what I call a “pure Ireland moment.”

Actually, I had many of these moments during my stay in this country and all of them are memorable, however, it’s the spirit of the people, their hospitality and genuinely warm Irish welcome that will remain in mind forever.