Memorable ‘pinch me’ moments abound in Southeast Asia
- Written by Deborah Stone

Seeing Cambodia’s famed Angkor Wat was just one of the many “pinch me” moments I encountered during my trip to Vietnam and Cambodia with Journeys Within, an award-winning boutique Southeast Asia tour company. I confess I stopped counting these memorable occurrences after just a few days into this fascinating cultural odyssey. The moments came fast and furious, one after another, and all I could do was continue to pinch myself to ensure I wasn’t dreaming.


From Hanoi, I headed to Halong Bay for a three-day trip on a classic junk boat. A visit to this UNESCO World Heritage site is an incredible treat. The bay features nearly 2,000 limestone islands of various sizes and shapes that rise up from the crystalline emerald water, creating one of Vietnam’s most spectacular natural wonders. The isles appear as monoliths or pillars and together with a variety of coastal erosional features such as arches, caves and grottos, combine to create a haunting seascape. Kayaking in and around these formations, especially on a misty late afternoon, is deliciously eerie, qualifying for yet another one of those “pinch me” moments. The follow-up, a spectacular cave dinner, provided the icing on the cake. Surrounded by candles and tea lights, my fellow passengers and I ate at a long table within a massive cavern that we reached after trekking up steps carved into the side of a large rock formation. We were all bewitched by this enchanting setting, not to mention fully sated by the grand feast of beautifully presented fresh seafood.

Vietnam is full of World Heritage Sites from north to south and all places in between. In the central zone of the country lies the old capital city of Hue, which contains a number of historic treasures. Located on the banks of the picturesque Perfume River, the city is notable for its temples, royal tombs, palaces and pagodas. One of the prime attractions is the Imperial Citadel, an extensive complex that once contained a forbidden city where only the emperors, concubines and those close enough to them were granted access. South of the city are the Tombs of the Emperors, each with a different style, providing excellent examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture. Khai Dinh, the best preserved of the lot, is completely over the top with opulent, detailed mosaics.
Dinner at Tha Om Ancient House provided another “pinch me” opportunity. Located in a small village near Hue, the 100-year-old home is owned by an architect who is a descendent of a mandarin royal family. At night, the compound’s stone lanterns are lit up, displaying its numerous ponds and gardens, which exemplify the use of Feng Shui in ancient architecture. The menu for the evening’s meal was cleverly written on a fan and included such sumptuous delights as spring rolls, pumpkin soup, green papaya salad, fish, grilled beef on tiles and a host of tropical fruits, among other delectable dishes. The experience included a tour of the property, provided by the owner who enjoys regaling guests with intriguing historical information and details about the house, as well as its original occupant, the owner’s eccentric grandfather.

The south of Vietnam, which is considered the tail of the country’s dragon shape, holds its own when it comes to memorable sights and experiences. Ho Chi Minh City, formerly named Saigon, is the largest and most populated metropolitan and economic center in the country. Located near the Mekong River Delta, this city, like Hanoi, is a melding of Old World charm and modern influences and bustles with life rhythm 24-7. Examples of colonial French architecture, such as the stately Opera House and the grand Central Post Office, remind visitors of the French Indochina period in the country’s history.
For Vietnam War buffs, the Reunification Palace and War Remnants Museum provide insight into the conflict primarily from the perspective of the Vietnamese. The Palace, formerly the presidential quarters for South Vietnam’s president, has been left largely untouched from the day before Saigon fell to the North. A replica of the tank that crashed through the gate, officially ending the war on April 30, 1975, is parked on the lawn outside the building. Inside, there’s a kitschy rec room and an eerie basement full of vintage 1960s phones, radios and office equipment, supposedly left exactly as it was found when the North assumed power. A photo gallery and propaganda film recounting the domination of Ho Chi Minh’s revolutionary forces against the South and its American allies completes the picture. The War Remnants Museum is a much heavier and disturbing walk down memory lane, with halls of gruesome photographs and jars of deformed fetuses attributed to Agent Orange contamination.
Outside Ho Chi Minh in the Cu Chi district are the famed Cu Chi tunnels, which are worth a visit if only to get a full understanding of the ingenious underground network that aided guerilla fighters in their resistance to first the French and later, American forces. At its height, this intricate multi-layered system stretched from the South Vietnamese capital to the Cambodian border and consisted of innumerable trap doors, living areas, storage facilities, weapons factories, field hospitals, kitchens and command centers.
Via Journeys Within, I was able to meet and have dinner with a Vietnam War veteran. Mr. Binh Tron was only twenty years old when he joined the Viet Cong to fight against the South Vietnamese and eventually, the Americans, in an effort to help unify his country. He viewed Communism as a means to a better life and fully supported the views of his hero, Ho Chi Minh. Over the years, he rose within the ranks of the military to become a Colonel General. Today, at 83, Tron speaks of Vietnam’s future and hopes for his people. Through a translator, he explained that he encourages visitors to come to his country in friendship and in peace.
Though war sites, museums and memorials are in abundance in the south, there are other non-military-related points of interest, including the Cao Dai Great Temple. Definitely off the usual tourist route, this center of worship for the religion of Cao Daism is remarkable. The building closely resembles a Christian cathedral in its architecture, but is extravagantly decorated with a host of symbols, abstract designs and images of saints. Cao Daism is a unique religion that worships Jesus, Confucius and Buddha. Its most important symbol is the Divine Eye, which represents God. There are four ceremonies with chanting each day and an orchestra and choir leads the service in prayer and hymns. Timing your visit to the temple is essential in order to catch sight of the sea of faithful who dress in flowing white, yellow and blue robes and assemble in orderly rows during the ceremony with men on the right and women on the left.


For an up-close and personal view of rural life, take a tour of a nearby village with a local guide, who will show you his community of houses built on sticks and explain how residents eke out a living with their small rice farms and various cottage industries (i.e. rice distilleries and bamboo basket making). There’s no electricity so people use car batteries, candles and lamp oil. An average family has six kids, who attend school until sixth grade at the small village school. If they want to continue their education, the children must go into Siem Reap.
The tour motivated my desire to further interact with the local people. Journeys Within gladly facilitated this opportunity via its nonprofit organization, Journeys Within Our Community (JWOC). Founded by Brandon and Andrea Ross, owners of Journeys Within Tour Company, the organization works at the local level to be an active force for change. While living in Cambodia, the couple saw firsthand the needs of a population struggling with poverty and also saw the desire of their guests, friends and family to provide support. They realized they could work as intermediaries between those who needed help and those who wanted to give it, and thus, JWOC was born.
The organization invests in future generations by offering scholarships to students who have the ability to succeed, but are unable to afford the tuition fees and course materials. In return for their financial assistance, the students give back to their community by volunteering weekly in various activities under JWOC’s umbrella. The nonprofit also offers a micro-finance program aimed at addressing the major problem of credit and debt in Cambodia. By enabling people to begin or expand small businesses at fair and sustainable rates, they have the chance to break free from the cycle of poverty. Additional programs include the Clean Water Project and the Free Schools Program; the latter which offers a variety of English language classes, training opportunities and skills development for children and adults.
I chose to volunteer one afternoon in an English conversation class for adults. The group met at JWOC’s center in a building adjacent to the Journeys Within Boutique Hotel, where I was staying during my time in Siem Reap. Three other volunteers from the hotel joined me in assisting the teacher with different speaking activities. The students were delightful and equally as curious about us as we were about them, which spurred an enthusiastic and stimulating exchange. Their hearty appreciation for our time was genuine, but I know that I got much more in return than I gave. Yet another “pinch me” moment to treasure from this incredible trip.
Photos by Deborah Stone
If you go:
Journeys Within Tour Company is an award-winning boutique Southeast Asia tour company dedicated to delivering its guests unforgettable, customized trips through Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. The company’s team of experts craft personalized journeys that allow travelers to leave tourist hubs and get out into the countryside for an authentic cultural experience. It also provides clients the opportunity to be involved in active philanthropy through JWOC’s community support efforts.
For more information: 877-454-3672 or www.journeys-within.com
Vietnam tourism information: www.vietnamtourism.com
Cambodia tourism information: www.tourismcambodia.com
Toll Free (877) Toll Free (877) 454-3672 454-3672