Travel
Shed your cares and parka and head to Maui this winter PDF Print E-mail
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Written by Deborah Stone   
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Photo by Deborah Stone The Iao Valley, a lush, stream cut valley in West Maui
There’s a reason Maui continuously gets rated as one of the world’s best islands by readers of various travel publications. Actually, there are multiple reasons for this distinction. Many of them hit home for me on a recent visit to this tropical locale, a place I like to refer to as "Paradise."

Our family vacation timed perfectly with the onset of one of the worst winter snowstorms to ever hit the Seattle area. We gladly exchanged our frigid white landscape for palm trees and sunshine. And we reveled in hearing the same, monotonous forecast repeated day after day during our stay.

Yes, the weather is one of the main reasons people head for this 727-square-mile island that lies just below the Tropic of Cancer. Particularly in the winter months, folks need to escape their inhospitable climates and find solace in the sun. Maui’s temperatures remain fairly consistent year round, with usually no more than a 10-degree fluctuation between seasons. You can count on warm, sunny days most of the time and even when it rains, it doesn’t last long. And unlike Seattle, Maui’s liquid sunshine doesn’t chill you to the bone.

Another top draw for this island is its beaches. With 120 miles of coastline, there are more than 80 of these sun-burnished playgrounds. The question is how to pick the one that matches your needs.

If you want to see and be seen, head for Dig Me Beach in Kaanapali.

For good swimming, head for Kapalua Beach at the Kapalua Resort or D.T. Fleming Beach, a few miles north of Lahaina. Both are protected from strong winds and currents and their calm waters are ideal for swimmers of all ages and abilities.

A personal favorite of mine is Big Beach on the southwest part of the island. It’s one of the last major undeveloped beaches in this area and it gets high marks because it’s long and wide and never crowded. Most days it can feel like your own private retreat.

Then there’s Wailea Beach, a gorgeous, golden crescent of sand that’s spacious and protected on both sides by black-lava points.

Maui_Cinder_ConesBoth locals and visitors enjoy Kamaole III Beach Park, in the funky seaside town of Kihei, because it’s a series of three very accessible beaches.

If you want to surf or windsurf, or watch others strut their stuff, Ho’okipa Beach is the place to be. Let your mood and energy level dictate your choice and when in doubt, ask a local.

Maui’s beaches and warm weather set the stage for a gentle pace of life. I love that everything moves slowly here. It reminds me to take time to stop and smell the plumeria. This can be a bit of a challenge for some harried urbanites from the mainland, but after a few days, everyone gets accustomed to island time and the Maui mindset. There’s sheer bliss in knowing that you don’t have to hurry for anything or anybody and that your cares have been reduced to simple matters, like making sure you’ve applied enough sunscreen.

But, when you’re ready to move from that lounge chair on your lanai, there are plenty of activities to engage in, on land, in the water and even above ground. The possibilities are endless.

In addition to the typical options you might find on any tropical island, there are a number of unique pursuits.

For an adrenaline rush, I suggest rappelling down a canyon in Makamakaole Valley and ziplining through the treetops on an "Indiana Jones" style adventure.

Or take a heart pumping bike ride down the slopes of Haleakala. You can don hiking shoes and meander the many trails that dot the island, crawl through lava tubes, strap on wings and go paragliding, explore hidden sea caves and try your hand at kitesurfing or stand up paddle surfing, a vintage water sport that’s experiencing a comeback.

Tour a working pineapple plantation, snorkel the sunken crater of Molokini, visit Maui’s famed horse whisperer, Frank Levinson, for a seminar on equine language, make a pilgrimage to Charles Lindbergh’s grave (the legendary aviator is buried on the slopes of Haleakala), check out the Maui Ocean Center with its eye-popping Living Reef exhibit or learn something about island history at the Bailey House Museum, a treasure-trove of Hawaiiana.

To get a memorable bird’s eye view of the island, take a helicopter tour. You’ll be in awe of the landscape, which ranges from the lunar-like surface of Haleakala Crater to the waterfall-laced coastline of the North Shore rainforest. You’ll fly over deep, uninhabitable canyons and past sheer sea cliffs during this mystical, multi-sensory experience.

If you’ve never been to Maui, you’ll want to add two musts to your list: a visit to Haleakala National Park, the site of the world’s largest dormant volcano and a road trip to Hana.

More than 1.3 million people a year go up the 10,023 foot high mountain to peer down into Haleakala Crater, the size of which would hold Manhattan. But, there’s more to do here than stare into a big black abyss. Just going up the mountain is an experience in itself, offering breathtaking views of the isthmus of Maui, the West Maui Mountains and the Pacific Ocean.

Many folks make the drive up to the summit in predawn darkness to watch the sunrise over Haleakala, a divine treat that defies description.

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Photo by Deborah Stone The best Hawaiian shave ice on Maui is at Ululani’s
The road to Hana is also a memorable experience, which, in my opinion, is best savored when you’re not the one in the driver’s seat! You’ll want to take in the spectacular natural beauty outside your windows as you zigzag over 56 one-lane bridges and snake around more than 617 hairpin curves on this narrow coastal road.

Don’t be in a hurry or you’ll miss the sights from both sides of the road. And make sure you stop along the way to stretch your legs and check out the various parks, hidden villages, botanical gardens and dramatic waterfalls. It’s a trip that overwhelms the senses with continuous Kodak moments of lush, verdant rainforests, bucolic rolling hills and magnificent seascapes.

At the end of your journey, you’ll reach Hana, one of the last unspoiled Hawaiian towns on Maui. It’s a small, ingenuous village that contrary to its celebrity status prefers to remain unpretentious and natural.

In the winter months, climb aboard a boat and head for the open ocean to see the humpback whales. These playful, forty-ton creatures swim more than 2,500 miles from their summer feeding grounds in Alaska to mate and give birth in the waters around Hawaii. And up to 7,000 of them can pass through Maui.

When I visit the island during this season, I always make a point of cruising whale territory to espy these magnificent, endangered mammals.

This time around, my family opted for a Teralani sunset supper cruise, a three-in-one experience combining whale watching, dinner and the opportunity to take in one of the island’s famous sunsets at sea. We were rewarded with multiple sightings of whales blowing, breaching and slapping their tails. Their amazing feats of marine gymnastics held us spellbound and rendered us speechless.

Maui’s diversity of sea life, flora and fauna allow visitors multiple opportunities to have memorable encounters with nature.

The island is also a cultural mecca. You can learn about Polynesian arts and traditions, which embrace a mix of cultures from Hawaii, Tonga, Tahiti, Fiji and Samoa. The luau is popular with many first timers, but for a less commercial and more authentic experience, check out the Maui Arts & Cultural Center. It’s the main venue on the island for top notch Hawaiian performance and visual artists.

There’s also the Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concert Series, held weekly at the Napili Kai Beach Resort. I happened to catch one of these shows for the first time and I was impressed with the sweet and soulful quality of the music, the intimacy of the experience and the amount of passion the performers had for this traditional art form.

In slack key, some of the strings of the guitar are slacked from the standard tuning, with the thumb playing the bass while the other fingers play the melody and improvise in a finger-picked style. Music is created by the artist’s own characteristic tuning and fingering, inspired by the beauty and spirit of the islands and enriched by personal stories, memories and family traditions.

Maui_George_Kahumoku
Courtesy photo For an authentic cultural experience, attend a Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concert.
Then there’s "Picnic with Poki," monthly informal musical performances by local artists in front of the Kaahumanu Church in Wailuku. It doesn’t get any more Maui-style than this!

And to enhance your down home island experience, make sure you sample some local foods. Try a plate lunch, Hawaii’s version of fast food. It’s an inexpensive, yet filling dish that includes rice, macaroni or potato salad, a choice of several types of barbecued pork and beef, chicken (braised, breaded and fried or teriyaki style) or lomi-lomi salmon (served salted and chilled).

Plate lunches can be found at lunch wagons, drive-ins, diners and small markets. Manju, a type of pie-snack cake, is a true Maui treasure that also begs indulgence. These addictive buns are filled with everything from pineapple to sweet potato.

And while you’re at it, head for one of the ubiquitous shaved ice stands for another Hawaiian specialty. Ululani’s in Lahaina gets top marks in my family. The ice is so finely shaved it melts in your mouth and they have over 35 delicious flavors to tempt all palates.

You’ll find an ample variety of restaurants from small mom and pop eateries to fancy establishments with drop dead views. Once again, when in doubt, get suggestions from the locals. They’re the best guides when it comes to good food.

As for finding your special home away from home, rest assured, the accommodation selection is on par with the dining options on the island. You have your choice of full service resorts, hotels, condos, inns, cottages, B&Bs and campgrounds. Many families often enjoy staying in a condo, as it allows for the option of cooking and eating in, as well as provides easy access to a washer and drier.

We chose to make Kaanapali our base on the island and stayed at the Outrigger Maui Eldorado in a spacious and comfy two-bedroom condo perched on the golf course with a lovely ocean view.

It was chockfull of amenities and nicely furnished, as well as conveniently located to the beach, shops, restaurants and other activities.Maui is an all-around, ideal vacation destination that appeals to young and old, families and couples, adventure seekers and sedentary, lounge chair potatoes. It’s no wonder that travelers from around the globe return time and time again to this special slice of paradise, unable to resist its lure and promises of rest and rejuvenation.

 

 

 

 
Rewind Langley style PDF Print E-mail
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Written by Deborah Stone   
Inn_at_Langley_Whidbey_Island_001It’s only a 20-minute ferry ride from Seattle, but Whidbey Island feels worlds away. This place of towering trees and sparkling coves, set between the Cascade Mountains to the east and the Olympics to the west, is an ideal all-season getaway. Treasures abound in each nook and cranny of this special haven and discovering them is part of the fun.

I’ve enjoyed exploring this island over the years and have made numerous visits to its charming, picturesque waterfront towns.

Of these, Langley shines the brightest. This gem on the southern end of Whidbey is a quaint, visitor-oriented community with a thriving arts scene, great restaurants and an eclectic array of shops. Many artists make their home here and their creativity adds a colorful, dynamic flair to the town. You can see it in the galleries and in the distinctive handmade items that are featured in the distinctive stores and boutiques. And you can even experience it live at one of the many dance, music or theatre performances held at the Whidbey Island Center for the Arts. This rich culture dominates and it is what continues to inspire folks with unique talents and backgrounds to make their homes here.

Langley’s vibrant arts scene, however, is not the only reason to visit this pint-size village. Come for the peace and serenity, the languid pace of life and the opportunities the area offers to appreciate the great outdoors.

You can walk the shoreline, look for resident populations of bald eagles, herons and sea lions, spot migrating gray whales or a pod of orcas feeding in the waters off the island, ride your bike down quiet country roads or simply sit and do nothing except gaze out over the sea from your deck chair or waterfront- view room.

The island boasts the highest density of bed & breakfast inns in Washington, which means you have a wide range of accommodations from which to choose.

Inn_at_Langley_Whidbey_Island_003I recommend taking refuge at the intimate Inn at Langley. Built into a bluff overlooking the Saratoga Passage, the inn offers guests a ringside seat to the ebb and flow of the tides, the parade of boats that pass by and the endless sights and sounds of the wildlife that frolic in and around their marine playground.

Each one of the 26 guest rooms and cottages has a panoramic 180-degree waterfront view, as well as a whirl-bath jetted tub that faces the sea. From your own private deck, you can watch the sun rise above the mountains on the mainland and set over the Passage. And if it’s a tad bit chilly for an outdoor seat, cozy up to the fireplace and watch Mother Nature in all her glory through the room’s floor-to-ceiling windows. When you get hungry, there are plenty of options.

For a real treat, try the Inn’s special six-course dinner (served weekends only). Chef Matt Costello orchestrates this unique gourmand dining experience in The Chef’s Kitchen. Each menu presents the freshest selections that the region has to offer, with special attention paid to local foods of the island and the Northwest. Dishes change continually to reflect the seasons.

Diners have a front and center view of Costello in action, as he whips up his magic in the open kitchen setting.

Take a walk around town and check out Langley’s historic buildings and pocket parks by the beach. Make sure to stop in at Chocolate Flower Farm’s The Garden Shed. It’s one of my favorite places for distinctive gifts with a "chocolate twist."

And if you’re a bibliophile, you’re in luck. Langley boasts four bookstores, including two that specialize in rare books (Gregor Rare Books and Lowry-James). Other interesting shops to peek into include Music for the Eyes, a "museum" of textiles collected from around the world by former diplomats for the State Department;

Museo, a contemporary fine art gallery that showcases island and regional artwork; Virginia’s Antiques and Gifts; and The Star Store, an eclectic country mercantile.

To prevent you from shopping ‘til you drop, grab nourishment at one of the many cafes in town. I’m partial to The Café Langley for Mediterranean cuisine, The Fish Bowl for fresh seafood, Langley Village Bakery for everything from warm blueberry muffins to vegetarian pizza and Useless Bay Coffee Company for great coffee, scones and breakfast paninis.

Wander back to The Inn at Langley, and remember, you’re on island time.

If you go:

The Inn at Langley: www.innatlangley.com

Langley tourist information: www.visitlangley.com

Whidbey Island information: www.whidbeycamanoislands.com

 

 
Rough it — but in a refined way at Paws Up PDF Print E-mail
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Written by Deborah Stone   
 

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After an active day exploring the wilderness playground, head to Spa Town to soothe your tired muscles. Courtesy photo.
In my household, preparing for a camping trip usually involves a flurry of intense activity, from finding the necessary equipment somewhere in the depths of our overflowing garage to methodically checking off all the to-do items on an extensive 10-page list. Then there’s the meticulous packing and re-packing regimen to fit everything in our car.

As we head out, looking like the Joad family with all our earthly belongings strapped to the top of our vehicle, our neighbors line the streets waving goodbye, believing we are off on a grand year-long adventure. Little do they know, we’ll be back in two days. But, yes, it will be an adventure.

We’ll arrive and begin to set up the tent, which typically spurs a heated discussion and the eventual discovery that we’re missing a pole. After my husband concocts something to use from one of our hiking sticks, we proceed to unload everything and then it’s time to start a fire and prepare dinner.

Between swatting at hungry mosquitoes and staving off smoke inhalation, we manage to eat our charred, overcooked meal sometime before midnight. We crawl into our sleeping bags, blurry eyed and exhausted.

But, a blissful night’s sleep is not on the agenda. Rowdy campers nearby begin a karaoke contest. And then we hear that all-too familiar hissing sound, which is coming from the hole in our air mattress – the same hole that we forgot to patch from the last time we went camping.

To top it off, it starts to rain and our tent begins to leak right above our heads. As I lie there like a prisoner undergoing Chinese water torture, I fantasize about a different type of camping.

In my fantasy, I’m lying upon a feather bed draped in 300-thread-count Egyptian silk sheets, while being lulled gently to sleep by the soothing sounds of a nearby river. I’m cozy and dry, yet the great outdoors is right outside my door.

And when I’m hungry, I head for a nearby dining pavilion to enjoy a delicious gourmet meal. A khaki-clad camping butler is at my beck and call and tends to all the details, from providing wine service to arranging a day of exciting adventures. And every evening ends with a ready-made bonfire and a nightly S’mores fest.

It’s a fantasy that can become reality when you visit The Resort at Paws Up, a luxury ranch set along the Blackfoot River in Montana’s pristine wilderness. This grand enclave is a mecca for adrenaline junkies who love the outdoors, but appreciate a high level of comfort and personal service. The resort’s digs range from tastefully appointed, lodge-style private homes to a renovated, historic 1908 farmhouse.

There’s also the Bunkhouse, a former hayloft which is now a six-bed retreat. But, the most unique abodes are found at Tent City and River Camp, where "glamping" has been perfected. Here you can camp in five-star style in your own 270-square-foot, canvas-walled platform tent, complete with king-sized bed, fine linens, electricity, spacious deck, private master bathroom, housekeeping and butler service, gourmet fare and more.

At River Camp, the newer of the two sites, six such structures sit on the banks of the majestic Blackfoot River.

Roughing it in these accommodations means plush pile rugs, fluffy, terry-cloth robes, elk-antler bedside lamps, western artwork adorning the walls and electric blankets and space heaters to take the chill off the night air. Private bathrooms located nearby come equipped with steam showers and heated slate floors.

It’s easy to while away your day in this spectacular setting, doing nothing but simply sitting by the river watching a resident bald eagle family in action.

Or lazing on your deck, reading a book and sipping a cold one. But, most folks come to Paws Up because they have a healthy appetite for wilderness adventures.

Outdoor enthusiasts rejoice upon learning they have nearly 40,000 acres, over 120 trails and 10 miles of the Blackfoot River to explore. They salivate at the menu of activities offered, including horseback riding, fly fishing, hiking, mountain biking, river rafting, ATV touring, rock climbing, special kids’ discovery programs and my personal favorite, sporting clays.

Having never held a gun before, I approached this activity with great apprehension.

I didn’t want to embarrass myself, but knowing that I have a built-in klutz gene, I was prepared for the worst. It was a welcome surprise to discover that not only was I able to hit a number of the clays (once I could actually follow their trajectory patterns), but that I felt empowered by the sport. It was both fun and satisfying in ways I never imagined.

"Just call me Annie Oakley," I said to everyone who would listen to me as I waxed poetic about my experience.

After a full day of playing in the Rockies, many folks opt to head for Spa Town, a cluster of 11 oversized canvas structures nestled at the edge of a sage meadow with expansive, Big Sky Country vistas – the same legendary landscape that once inspired awe in Lewis and Clark. A winding boardwalk takes you to the privacy of your own treatment tent, where a talented massage therapist performs one of the many healing treatments available to soothe sore muscles. And when your stomach grumbles from all the activity and fresh air, take heart in knowing that food is always close at hand.

Meal time is a treat for the senses at Paws Up. The resort prides itself on creating sumptuous five-star cuisine that utilizes fresh, local ingredients from Montana’s agricultural bounty. You might start out the morning with huckleberry French toast and hand-made sausage.

As the sun sets, you’ll feast on specialties such as Rocky Mountain trout sautéed with fresh herbs or grilled elk loin in a mustard demi glace. There are also weekly wine tastings, cooking demonstrations, themed dinners, lavish barbeques and chuck wagon cookouts.

The Resort at Paws Up is the ultimate remedy for urban stress. It’s a wilderness sanctuary with the power to regenerate and revitalize the body, mind and spirit. And it sure beats the heck out of camping the old fashioned way!

If you go:

The Resort at Paws Up is located in Greenough, Montana, about 35 minutes from Missoula. Accommodation and full board packages start at $725 per couple; two night minimum. For more information: www.pawsup.com or 800/473-0601.

 
Rancho La Puerta: a balance of body/mind/spirit PDF Print E-mail
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Written by Deborah Stone   

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Artwork abounds at the Ranch with bronze sculptures dotting the lush landscape. Photo by Deborah Stone
There’s a reason why people return again and again to Rancho La Puerta. It’s because they get what they need from this place, whether it’s the chance to reward themselves with some long-awaited R&R, find the space for personal introspection or seize the opportunity to recharge their physical, emotional and spiritual well-being.

The Ranch has stood the test of time and veteran alumni, many with dozens of stays under their belts, are testament of its enduring appeal and ability to provide something for everyone.

Located on the Baja Peninsula, in Tecate, Mexico, just 40 miles southeast of San Diego, the Ranch is recognized as the first and oldest fitness destination spa in North America.

Founded in 1940 by owner Deborah Szekely and her now-deceased husband, Edmond Szekely, the Ranch was created “to make healthy people healthier,” and it was based upon the principle that both the body and the mind must be exercised in order for this goal to be accomplished.

What has long attracted guests to the Ranch is its ease and warmth, along with a low-key, casual atmosphere, which makes everyone feel immediately comfortable. Perhaps the tone was set many years ago when the founders had the idea to help people get out of their daily ruts and invited guests to bring $17.50 and their own tent for a stay at a new type of health camp.

From these humble beginnings, the Ranch grew and gradually evolved into a top-rated modern spa, which has continued to garner worldwide recognition and awards for its innovative design, extensive menu of fitness classes, delicious organic cuisine and environmental-friendly practices.

What strikes most guests when they arrive at the Ranch is its setting. The place sits in the midst of the high desert on 150 lushly landscaped acres, with lovely mountain vistas. Meandering brick walkways take you through a flower-filled, Eden-like oasis with intoxicating scents and dazzling colors. There are olive groves, ponds and fountains and placed discreetly around the grounds are beautiful bronze sculptures and other outdoor art installations.

Pockets of serenity, in the form of small meditative gardens and contemplative bowers, are tucked among the rooms, gyms, pools and villas that spread out over the expansive property. And towering above it all is Mt. Kuchumaa, emitting a spiritual force and mystical energy that native tribes viewed as essential to well-being.

A south-of-the-border charm prevails throughout the Ranch and dominates its décor, from stucco walls and wood-beamed ceilings, to Tecate tile floors and colorful displays of Mexican folk art. This theme can also be found within elements of the cuisine, which is primarily vegetarian and features an abundance of organic fruits and vegetables. Meals at the Ranch are served buffet style for breakfast and lunch; whereas, dinners are a sit-down affair with wait staff in attendance. The food is tasty and inventive, with plenty of choices to appeal to even the pickiest of eaters. I ate like a horse while I was at the Ranch because I was hungry from all the exercise I was getting each day. And I never worried about what I was eating because I knew it was healthy and packed a nutritious punch. I took note of all the ways veggies could be used and prepared and realized that there is more edible plant life than I knew existed.

During my stay at the Ranch, I would begin each day at dawn by lacing up my hiking boots and joining a guided group hike around the surrounding wilderness reserve area.

The Ranch is well-known for its hiking program and offers options for all skill levels, ranging from rigorous five-mile mountain climbs to moderate two-mile walks over rolling hills.

Desiring a challenge, I often chose the kick-butt hikes, which not only gave me an excellent early morning work-out, but also a real sense of accomplishment. And the breathtaking views from the various vistas served as daily inspiration.

Guests at the Ranch are fortunate to have over 70 different indoor and outdoor, multi-leveled, instructor-led classes from which to choose. Some are active and others lean towards being contemplative and spiritually-focused. I aimed at achieving a balance of both.

And as I had felt stuck in a fitness rut before coming, I also sought to try some new and different activities, such as African and hip-hop dance, to spice up my regimen.

One afternoon, I headed to the pool for an Aqua Plus class, while another time, I checked out the Ranch’s labyrinth, a replica of the famous floor labyrinth laid in Chartres Cathedral in the early 13th century. Unlike mazes, which confuse participants with various deceptive elements, labyrinths are made of paths which you walk continuously and meditatively toward the center, then back out again.

They are a powerful metaphor for life’s journey and they are often used to help lead individuals towards inner serenity and self-knowledge.

As I walked the classic11-circuit design, I tried to concentrate on letting go of all the details of my life and to open myself to the experience. It was a wonderful opportunity to quiet my often too-busy mind.

There’s a non-competitive atmosphere at the Ranch, which promotes camaraderie and support among guests. No one acts like a diva and there are no fitness warriors who are out to show they are the fastest, the strongest or the most flexible athletes.

Well-trained and certified instructors provide encouragement and positive feedback, while helping participants improve their skills. They are upbeat, knowledgeable and truly interested in sharing their expertise with others. But they will caution you not to overdo it during your stay. The temptation is to try to do everything, which is impossible, and those who attempt this feat usually end up painfully sore and unable to enjoy their experience.

I found that it was important to intersperse bouts of activity with periods of rest. And when it was time to relax, I often headed to a lounge chair by the pool or to one of the many hammocks strewn around the property. Of course, I was also a frequent visitor to the several heath sanctuaries on the property, where I received an array of rejuvenating treatments.

The Ranch’s menu of spa services is extensive and many of the products used in the treatments contain herbal ingredients that come from the Ranch’s organic farm, Tres Estrellas.

Located just a few miles north of the Ranch, Tres Estrellas comprises five acres and produces most of the fresh vegetables for the Ranch’s kitchen.

Guests can sign up for a breakfast hike to the farm, which includes a tour of the gardens. It’s definitely one of the most popular activities and a must-do experience, in my opinion.

The combination of an early morning invigorating walk, followed by a sumptuous breakfast served al fresco, is truly a sensory delight.

Tres Estrellas is also the site of the Ranch’s new cooking school and culinary center, La Cocina Que Canta (The Kitchen That Sings). Opportunities for life-changing learning abound at this spa. In addition to all the daytime activities, there are nightly lectures by renowned guest speakers, musical performances and workshops in aromatherapy, prayer arrow affirmations, star gazing, jewelry-making, watercolor painting and more. Rancho La Puerta is a special haven that provides individuals with the luxury of time and space to find a balance between body, mind and spirit. I, too, can now proudly add my name to the vast number of devotees of this unique destination spa

 
Escape from reality and head to Las Vegas PDF Print E-mail
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Written by Deborah Stone   
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Opulent hotels and casinos line the famed Las Vegas Strip; a dazzling main street that can be seen from outer space. Photo by Deborah Stone.
Las Vegas is the world’s most famous monument to excess and wild abandon.

It’s a place where anything goes — where a midget size Elvis croons tunes on one corner of the Strip, while down the way, a woman in scanty attire with head-to-toe tattoos breakdances for a crowd; where men work the street flicking cards in your face, advertising a menu of risqué and raunchy adult entertainment options. It’s also where persistent hawkers try and entice passersby into their bars, nightclubs and dens of iniquity with that one simple, but heavily loaded word — "free."

It’s an obvious trap, but there’s always some poor sucker who falls for the ploy and ends up learning his lesson the hard way.

The cornucopia of vices on display 24 hours a day along with the glitz, bright lights and all you can eat buffets serve as magnets to the millions of tourists who flock to Vegas.

They come to escape from reality and to get themselves a big slice of fantasy pie with a hefty dollop of decadence on top.

I recently spent a few days in this razzle dazzle town after a lapse of almost seven years. Other than more mega, ostentatious hotels and casinos and newly created show venues, the place hadn’t changed much.

The most noticeable addition was the City Center (still under construction), a collection of new hotels, residences, spas, restaurants and upscale shopping set right off the Strip.

Vegas was its typical raucous and crazy self with a host of colorful characters and for a few days, it was highly entertaining — especially the people.

Watching people is a great Vegas pastime. I’m especially fascinated with the older women playing the penny slots. Most are hard core veterans of the game and they will sit until the wee hours of the morning, cigarette in hand, smoke billowing around them, as they work the machines in earnest.

And then there are the intense card players at the high stakes poker and blackjack tables where the pressure is palpable and the mood is dead serious. Or the group of gregarious, excited folks having a winning streak over at the craps table. Once strangers, they’re now best buds, hoping that Lady Luck continues to keep them in good company.

Casinos make the perfect showcase for human nature to unveil itself in all its blemished glory. It’s a psychologist’s dream come true.

I also like to spend time sitting at an outdoor café and watching the masses stroll along the Strip.

Here’s where you’ll see people from all over the world, many wide eyed and mouths agape, taking in the sights. And let’s not forget about the packs of young guys on the hunt for the opposite sex and the throngs of young gals in pursuit of the same.

As darkness falls, the mating calls get louder, the mood becomes rowdier and inhibitions go by the wayside.

The scene is akin to a colossal Mad Hatter party where booze, not tea, is the drink of choice.

Although the people provide much of the entertainment, shows take center stage in Vegas.

You’ll find world class entertainers, from famous singers to well known comedians and magicians. And then there are the multi-act productions, which are in a class of their own.

Cirque du Soleil has a bit of a monopoly in this market. Currently, the Montreal-based company has seven shows operating at different casinos on the Strip.

The productions are a fusion of acrobatics, dance, comic antics, music and awe inducing visual effects. And audiences love them.

In past visits, I have seen Cirque’s "O" and "Mystere," both of which were wonderfully entertaining. This time around, I caught "LOVE," a theatrical spectacle set to music by the Beatles.

The show began as a collaboration between George Harrison and Cirque’s Guy LaLiberte.

After Harrison’s death, the remaining Beatles and the families of the late group members helped make Harrison’s vision a reality, using the master tapes at Abbey Road Studios.

The music director is none other than Sir George Martin, who is best known for his work producing the Beatles’ music.

Often referred to as a "rock ‘n roll poem," the show can be described as a psychedelic journey through the trends and social/political climate of the ’60s, with a liberal dose of Beatles’ history.

It’s a celebration of the musical legacy of this iconic group. The content of the selected songs is artfully interpreted through a series of innovative performances done by a cast of international artists.

They include acrobats, tumblers, extreme sports athletes, urban freestyle dancers and aerialists, all who bring a youthful, raw energy to the production, while showcasing their impressive talents. Each of the acts astounds and overloads the senses.

In "Help," for example, four inline skaters take the stage to leap 11-foot ramps in high octane fashion.

"Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds" features some incredible high flying aerial moves, while "Being for the Benefit of Mr. Kite!" culminates in a jaw dropping swing trapeze routine. Bungees figure prominently.

They are climbed and repelled, used to propel birds around the stage during "Blackbird" and provide flying devices for airborne performers in "Come Together."

Dynamic and larger-than-life characters take the stage in a carnival like atmosphere, which is enhanced by a montage of images and photos of the group.

The action takes place in a custom-built theater-in-the-round at the Mirage. Audiences are enveloped in a state-of-the-art panoramic visual and surround sound environment, which helps to create an intimate and powerful entertainment experience.

"LOVE" is an unforgettable trip down memory lane, which will leave you with feelings of nostalgia for a bygone era.

Down the street at the Wynn is "Le Rêve" (The Dream), another show I caught while in town.

Though not a Cirque production, it is reminiscent of one.

It’s an evocative aqua spectacle, also in-the-round, which features a blend of aerial acrobatics, provocative choreography and outrageous antics. The production conjures up an imaginary world with its elaborate effects, mystifying characters, and awe-inspiring feats.

Performers dazzle the audience on stage, in the air and from the water. They appear from every angle of the theater, at times ascending from the pool, descending from the ceiling or running through the aisles alongside the audience.

One of the highlights of the show is a tango number performed with both synchronized swimmers in the water and tango dancers on a platform. It’s a multi-level extravaganza of red high heels and legs moving to the intoxicating beat of the music.

A pair of strong men and their daring feats of strength is another crowd favorite. "Le Rêve" immersed me into a world of fantasy, adventure and intrigue and I was enchanted and captivated by its magic.

Choosing shows at Vegas is like being a kid at a candy shop, albeit a very expensive one.

The selection is extensive and can be overwhelming, especially for the first time visitor.

Half price tickets do exist if you’re willing to stand in line and not be picky about availability.

And there are also hotel packages that include admission to some of the hottest productions.

For me, being in Vegas without seeing a show is not an option.

It’s part of the total experience of this city – a place that stands alone in its opulence, its magnetism and its garishness.

For information on all things Vegas: www.visitlasvegas.com

 
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